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Brake pads


paisesmediterraneos

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  Hello I bought last summer a 2003 Cat 1.6 K Roadsport, when I press the brake pedal at high speed everything is ok, but when I am doing it at 15 mph the brakes are screeching till the car stops and it's very annoying.

I was checking the four wheels brake pads and they are almost new (still very thick); I decided to change them for new ones to make disappear the brake  screeching at low speeds.

First question: which pads for only road use must I fit and where can I buy them?? (I am from Spain but I will order them to UK)

Second question:I will do the job by myself as there are no Caterham dealership in Spain and the mechanics here they never saw and worked in a Caterham. I was reading the GTKY7 article about brake pads and they say to bring the car to an experienced person because it will be necessary to retract the piston. I will do it by myself, so...wich specific tool must I buy and what must I do to retract the pistons and change the rear pads??.

 

Thank you very much, regards, David.

 

 

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Thank you for the advices.

Do you know the Nm of torque to reassembly the calliper body after retracting the piston and install the new pads?, must I use also a special glue to fix the nut?

In the article at http://www.alcester-racing-sevens.com/rear_brake_pads.htm, it's written: It is also important to ensure that when the tool is removed*, the piston is left with its locating recesses arranged in a North, East, South and West arrangement so that the piston aligns with the locating pin on the back of the brake pad itself. Excuse my ignorance, but what are the locating recesses?, maybe I don't find the right translation of this expression to the Spanish language.

Must I use some grease at the rear of the new brake pads to prevent noises when breaking in the future?

 

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The backplates of the pads have raised parts that fit into the grooves (In a + shape) on the face of the pistons. These are the same grooves that you used for the wind-back tool. It is important that these grooves are set to the + position, not like x. This is to prevent the pistons from turning. Once the pads and caliper are refitted to the car, it is important to press hard the brake pedal a few times to operate the self- adjuster inside the pistons. Do not touch or adjust the handbrake until after you have done this.
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When I had Mintex 1144 pads on the front I had the same problem even after running them in correctly. I found that braking more heavily fixed them eventually so they probably just need a lot of heat. Those pads created a lot of dust which could be another sign if the problem is the same. I ditched the Mintex pads after a caliper seized.

If you don't line up the recess correctly you will have a lot of trouble getting the caliper back on so it is quite hard to get it wrong.

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Performance pads quite often squeal as braking force is the top priority, although I am using a combination of Mintex and Ferodo  and they very rarely squeal. Road pads are designed to work well from cold and be quiet and these are often the best option if you don't do track days.

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