CtrMint Posted February 16, 2019 Author Share Posted February 16, 2019 Mike,Is the plug next to the submarine? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CtrMint Posted February 16, 2019 Author Share Posted February 16, 2019 Chris,I'll pop out and try and photograph it, but with the top hose, and catch tank it would be pretty difficult. I do remember thinking the housing came out a long way when trying to get the hose on top it, so if it wasn't the longer version, i.e. the short one I'd hate to imagine what it would be like fitting a longer version. I'm there thinking it must be the long one then. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ChrisC Posted February 16, 2019 Share Posted February 16, 2019 Yer it’s very tight getting a 105c stat plumbed in a S3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikecocker Posted February 16, 2019 Share Posted February 16, 2019 It's not the plug on the submarine pipe, it's on the engine block facing the pedal box. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CtrMint Posted February 17, 2019 Author Share Posted February 17, 2019 I went and read PurpleMeanies blog, seems his fan cut in at 107c, I shut the engine off at 106c..... might try again today. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ScottR400D Posted February 17, 2019 Share Posted February 17, 2019 Again it strikes me how variable Caterham’s are. My Duratec runs, and has always run, at just over 80c. I assume I have the 82c stat which was supplied with the car in 2015. Cruising along it will be steady at that temperature. Opening up the throttle on a clear road the temperature will fall a few degrees then steadily recover. In traffic it never indicates more than 85, by which time the fan is on. Even on track things are little different. I’ve never had the slightest problem ‘bleeding’ the system either, just removed plug from top of rad, coolant on expansion bottle and refit plug when water comes up to top of rad. . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ScottR400D Posted February 17, 2019 Share Posted February 17, 2019 Again it strikes me how variable Caterham’s are. My Duratec runs, and has always run, at just over 80c. I assume I have the 82c stat which was supplied with the car in 2015. Cruising along it will be steady at that temperature. Opening up the throttle on a clear road the temperature will fall a few degrees then steadily recover. In traffic it never indicates more than 85, by which time the fan is on. Even on track things are little different. I’ve never had the slightest problem ‘bleeding’ the system either, just removed plug from top of rad, coolant on expansion bottle and refit plug when water comes up to top of rad. . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CtrMint Posted February 17, 2019 Author Share Posted February 17, 2019 I've had another day on it and still no further forward sadly. I ran the car to 107c according to the OBDII reader, and still not fan. I pulled the plug/sensor on the side of the engine when warm still no fan. I've been unable to sort the lighting issues too, having reseated the connections behind the rear archesI've hit a brick wall to be honest. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
elie boone Posted February 17, 2019 Share Posted February 17, 2019 If one light seems brighter than another that is an earth problem, for the fan did you check the fuse ? once i had a brand new fuse that was broken inside i.e. not blown. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ChrisC Posted February 17, 2019 Share Posted February 17, 2019 Its not uncommon to get electrical issues sorted in PBC, my ignition switch was wired incorrectly when the ignition was switched on. Obviously I assumed it was something I had done while wiring the starter, but it was the person that wired my ignition switch that got it wrong, and I had no wires at all going to the start button. Problem for you is its not going back to CC for PBC. As a side project I replaced all my fuses with light up units. A small LED is built into the fuse which lights up when its blown, very handy for that quick check under the dashboard. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CtrMint Posted February 17, 2019 Author Share Posted February 17, 2019 Chris,Unfortunately the car won't be run through the PBC process until after it's test, its due to be tested on the Isle of Man first. Getting it to a dealer isn't practical. So i need to sort.Elie,I've had a good search online and can't find a common view on the fuse box, which isn't ideal Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ScottR400D Posted February 17, 2019 Share Posted February 17, 2019 If you’re planning to have a PBC, why not get it done before the IVA, and these teething issue can be resolved by CC?i had some odd things during my build, differently sized doors (!) and a couple of small things that slip my mind. I just left them and they were sorted by CC during the PBC. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jim 123 Posted February 17, 2019 Share Posted February 17, 2019 Have you checked your Owner Handbook which has the fuse box layout? Are you getting rear indicators? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CtrMint Posted February 17, 2019 Author Share Posted February 17, 2019 Scott,I'm based on the Isle of Man with no local dealer and the ferry costs a fortune. I'm going to local test and register the car. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jim 123 Posted February 17, 2019 Share Posted February 17, 2019 Brake light switch is inside the pedal box and is adjustable. On the gearbox reversing light switch there are 2 sets of leads on the LH side of the box. Did you connect the forward most or rear most leads from the box into the loom? Re #38, are you getting tail and fog light? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ChrisC Posted February 17, 2019 Share Posted February 17, 2019 Yep Jim is right brake light switch adjustment would be my starting point for brake lights not working, and I have seen confusion on blogs about which wires to connect for the reverse light switch on the Mazda box. Your going to need a multimeter to check the earth of the rear lights to resolve that brightness difference, and I bet the number plate light.As for the fan I will check the last published wiring diagrams, however I know they are a little out of date. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jim 123 Posted February 17, 2019 Share Posted February 17, 2019 Mark, another thought re your temperature readings, are you using an Easimap OBD connection lead and Easimap software. Maybe somebody else can comment but I am not sure that generic leads and software are compatible in a 7. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ChrisC Posted February 17, 2019 Share Posted February 17, 2019 As I suspected the wiring diagram I have shows an MFU, which controls the fan (via the ECU). The MFU isn’t fitted to our cars but it’s basically a relay unit, so it will have been replaced with a relay. Sorry I can’t help with which one :-( Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CtrMint Posted February 17, 2019 Author Share Posted February 17, 2019 You'll have to forgive me if this is a daft suggestion, this is certainly new to me.According to the manual the fuse for the brake lights is the same as the reverse light.... surely that means the fuse? Seems coincidental both are out. I do remember putting the reverse connections on the gearbox, not sure which in terms of forward or rear most. I've not opened the pedal box cover yet.I've found the fuse diagram in the owners manual, I'm just working out whats what based on the following image from the fuse box.I am getting tail and fog, although the tail aren't the same intensity. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CtrMint Posted February 17, 2019 Author Share Posted February 17, 2019 fuse box, top is top Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jim 123 Posted February 17, 2019 Share Posted February 17, 2019 Well spotted! Fingers crossed it's the combined fuse on the Duratec. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CtrMint Posted February 17, 2019 Author Share Posted February 17, 2019 hmm, So found the 10A Brake/Reverse light fuse, it was blown. Replaced it with a fuse confirmed as OK with a multimeter. Put the car in reverse and pressed the brakes. Nothing. Removed the fuse, and it's blown!I have no idea why the excess current is blowing the fuse? Thoughts. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CtrMint Posted February 17, 2019 Author Share Posted February 17, 2019 I've disconnected the econoseal plugged used to connect the reverse light to the loom.Swapped the fuse for a new one, didn't press the brake or put the car in reverse, turned on the ignition and then recheckws the fuse, everything was good.I then put the fuse back, put the car in reverse and it blew the fuse, whilst the light was still disconnected. Is it logical to assume the short is therefore related to the reverse switch.Does this logic confirm the brake pedal switch is OK?I didn't check the brake pedal as I'm chewing threw fuses. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jim 123 Posted February 17, 2019 Share Posted February 17, 2019 Mark, I think you need to buy a few more fuses. Next step would be to try the brake switch without touching the reversing light. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CtrMint Posted February 17, 2019 Author Share Posted February 17, 2019 Jim, I think I did most of that, I'll try now with the brake, but as mentioned I'm running low on fuses. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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