CtrMint Posted February 9, 2019 Share Posted February 9, 2019 Guys,Quick call out for so help,A mate has come round to help me bleed the clutch, so sorry for not speed some time searching.We are trying to get the bleed nipple loose on the 5 speed box (2018). CC seems to have fitted a cylinder underneath the nipple to lift it out the bell housing. However when we turn the nipple the cylinder turns, I guess unscrewing. Is there any tips to separate the nipple and cylinder?I've a concerned we'll detach the cylinder, and can't get enough to hold the cylinder.thanksMark Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jim 123 Posted February 9, 2019 Share Posted February 9, 2019 Dunno if this helps........... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CtrMint Posted February 9, 2019 Author Share Posted February 9, 2019 sadly not jim Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mic Posted February 9, 2019 Share Posted February 9, 2019 The bleed nipple is around 2 inches long, it is one piece. Just undo the nipple (8mm) 1 turn. The whole thing will turn. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CtrMint Posted February 9, 2019 Author Share Posted February 9, 2019 Thanks Mic,I just want to be doubly sure, no super sure here. I am frankly scared of undoing the nipple including the cylinder and dropping a washer or other sealing device off the very bottom of the cylinder, into the bell housing...... engine out jobby then!What you are saying is the cylinder is part of the nipple, so just crack the nipple, let the cylinder turn also and bleed as normal????We've spent the entire day hunting for a solution, since 9am this morning but gave up in the end, settle for calling Caterham Monday. However if you what you say is true we've been incredibly silly. Would appreciate you confirming? Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CtrMint Posted February 9, 2019 Author Share Posted February 9, 2019 Pic for reference, showing cylinder under bleed nipple. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Petethediesel Posted February 9, 2019 Share Posted February 9, 2019 Yes Mark, the whole thing is the bleed nipple. Half a turn, connect the bleed hose and pump. Do NOT unscrew fully or try to separate the very top section (that looks a normal nipple from the rest of its cylindrical body (it's all one piece.) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jim 123 Posted February 9, 2019 Share Posted February 9, 2019 If you don't believe him undo the nipple progressively up to 1 turn whilst your mate pumps the pedal. You'll see from the photo in #2 that there is bags of thread seating the assembly. The only thing likely to come out is air and DOT 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
7 wonders of the world Posted February 9, 2019 Share Posted February 9, 2019 Firstly have you set the clutch stop...?to bleed undo a full turn with a clear hose on th nipple draining into a catch tin below and allow gravity to do the rest.double cheack the lutch stop afterwards - do not repeatadly pump the clutch as this can overextend the CSC and pop it out.Clutch should just clear when pedal is on the stop. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CtrMint Posted February 9, 2019 Author Share Posted February 9, 2019 I've not changed the clutch stop, I assumed you'd do that after bleeding the system."Clutch should just clear when pedal is on the stop." -- sorry what do you mean by that? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
7 wonders of the world Posted February 9, 2019 Share Posted February 9, 2019 You need to have the stop in a base position as the first thing you do after bleeding the clutch is try it half a dozen times in quick succession which if the stop is absence can over extend and displace the CSC.Clutch clearing - it should disengage drive just enough to allow you to select gears, if the clearance is insufficient it will drag leading to difficulties and excess force being required to engage first and grating whilst engaging reverse in conventional gearboxes, though pretty sure the Mazda has a syncro reverse too.Best to set the stop on the side of caution and after bleeding ask swmbo to sit in the car with the car in gear hold the clutch down and see if you can turn the crank with a spanner if it drags you wont be able to turn it over therefore adjust the stop to allow more pedal travel and retry (assuming the car is not running yet) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CtrMint Posted February 9, 2019 Author Share Posted February 9, 2019 Clutch slave cylinder? is that in the bell housing? sorry I dont know this stuff at all.Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CtrMint Posted February 9, 2019 Author Share Posted February 9, 2019 what is the CSC? where is it?Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jim 123 Posted February 9, 2019 Share Posted February 9, 2019 Green and grey circular thing in #2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
7 wonders of the world Posted February 9, 2019 Share Posted February 9, 2019 concentric slave cylinder (CSC) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CtrMint Posted February 9, 2019 Author Share Posted February 9, 2019 Just got back in from the garage. Things seem to have gone ok, another late one mind. My day time work is usually shambolic, I seem to always make most progress after 9pm !I adjusted the clutch pedal stop to quite a short throw, around the vertical position, I basically reduced the throw from the default CC shipped the car with. I figure I can always adjust it out if needs be.I put fluid in and had the wife slowly pump the pedal. We've got a good pedal feel, if slightly stiff, a reasonable amount of fluid and air came through the bleed pipe. We've also got the car engaging gears with ease, it certainly didn't do that before, so I think its good.Anything I've missed? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ScottR400D Posted February 10, 2019 Share Posted February 10, 2019 Sounds like you’ll be fine there. Have to say that things seem to have got very complicated since I built my car in 2015. It didn't (and doesn’t) have That extended bleed nipple, mine is just about flush with the bell housing, but easily accessed with a M8 gooseneck. Clear pipe attached after positioning spanner I simply cracked the nipple, put fluid in and pumped it through. Didn’t have to adjust pedal stop at all. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CtrMint Posted February 10, 2019 Author Share Posted February 10, 2019 Well the pedal stop was loose so needed securing, I’d totally forgotten about it having done the throttle pedal stop. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Garth Posted February 10, 2019 Share Posted February 10, 2019 You need to make sure the clutch is fully dis-engaging! Especially if you have brought the stop out. On a type 9 box you check by letting the engine idle in neutral, depress clutch fully wait 2 seconds and then engage reverse - should slip in easily - if any grinding etc then clutch is still engaging the pressure plate. Probably simiar for Mazda box? Something like that I think!. Good luck Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
7 wonders of the world Posted February 10, 2019 Share Posted February 10, 2019 already covered in #11 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CtrMint Posted February 10, 2019 Author Share Posted February 10, 2019 I've not managed to start the engine yet, I'm still working through some tasks at the front of the car. Will check once I've got the car started. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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