TomB Posted February 7, 2019 Share Posted February 7, 2019 In the process of taking my car apart, I’ve taken the engine/box out, and am now starting on my the rear suspension. Working in the reverse of assembly, Ive taken the rear callipers off first. My job for tonight was to crack the hub nuts to allow me to continue with the strip down.You've probably spotted my error. Now there is nothing stopping the hubs turning when I try to undo them! Aside from re fitting the handbrake calliper, and adjusting the cable back up to tension, what are my options? I did want to strip it properly as I intend replacing the wheel bearing carriers when it all goes back together.I know I can take the dedion ear and drive shaft out together, which will get it all apart quickly. But when it gets put back, I’ll have to put the brake calliper and cable on, crack the nuts and remove them and the disc is to get to the bearing carrier.If I remove the ear and drive shaft together, do you think a friendly garage with an impact driver could undo the hub nut, or would not being attached to the car not allow this? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jim 123 Posted February 7, 2019 Share Posted February 7, 2019 You should be able to lock the prop shaft yoke against the chassis with a solid piece of bar (screwdriver?). Remember that one nut is a clockwise thread, the other is anti clockwise. They are really tight. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TomB Posted February 7, 2019 Author Share Posted February 7, 2019 That could work, but the propshaft is of course only secured at the diff end. If the drive shaft/ear /disc assembly was held in a vice, would an impact driver undo the hub nut? I’m thinking this could be a good approach.If had a helper on the other side with a big spanner, could we try to undo them at the same time? I’d be worried about damaging the diff though as all that force would be going down the drive shafts to the diff. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Jonathan Kay Posted February 7, 2019 Member Share Posted February 7, 2019 Private Message sent.Jonathan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Leadership Team SLR No.77 Posted February 7, 2019 Leadership Team Share Posted February 7, 2019 With the amount of work you have to do to prepare the car for painting etc, why not just do as you suggest and remove the complete DeDion ear / half shaft assembly and leave the wheel bearing intact. It takes the pressure off and it will wait for another day.Stu. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Toby S Posted February 7, 2019 Share Posted February 7, 2019 When I changed my rear wheel bearings - I found the hub didn't spin when I used a borrowed Snap-on electric impact driver/wrench, having previously tried removing the nuts with a breaker bar and failing miserably (hub would just spin) - no doubt the physicists among us can explain Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jim 123 Posted February 7, 2019 Share Posted February 7, 2019 With the driveshaft in a vice you might be pushed to get enough friction contact to stop it turning when you try to crack the nut. Caliper back on if you are worried about the diff? Chances are that the removal torque might be less than the 270Nm needed to seat the original bearing in its' carrier. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
7 wonders of the world Posted February 8, 2019 Share Posted February 8, 2019 undo the four bolts that secure the 'ear' to the tube and with draw the entire driveshaft, hub and disc.....or do you need the discs off ..? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Vine Posted February 8, 2019 Share Posted February 8, 2019 Do you have a hefty vice? If so, you could try taking the complete shaft-ear-disc assembly and clamping the disc in the vice. To avoid damaging the disc, insert the brake pads between disc and vice jaws.JV Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ScottR400D Posted February 8, 2019 Share Posted February 8, 2019 The reason the shaft doesn’t spin with an IW is because the wrench is actually delivering a high torque impact for a short duration which doesn’t overcome the inertia in the shaft etc. It’s like unscrewing the nut with a series of very accurately directed hammer blows. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
elie boone Posted February 8, 2019 Share Posted February 8, 2019 Impact wrench at full whack no problem at all. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Area Representative Paul Richards Posted February 8, 2019 Area Representative Share Posted February 8, 2019 "Worried about damaging the diff". Really Tom. You're not serious. How much torque do you think the engine puts through it. I have an impact wrench if you need it. It's 950nm with breakaway torque of 1625nm. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Area Representative Geoff Brown Posted February 8, 2019 Area Representative Share Posted February 8, 2019 Can you put the rear wheels back on & lower the car to the floor ?If so just chock the wheels solidly - I use a section of four inch wooden post cut diagonally. The nuts should shift with a breaker bar. Having someone sit in the cockpit will help as well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TomB Posted February 8, 2019 Author Share Posted February 8, 2019 Paul - thanks for the impact wrench offer. My plan is now to remove as an assembly to progress towards getting the car to Arch by the end of the month, then if your amenable, Ill bring the parts round, we can put them in your vice and wizz them off with the wrench. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Area Representative Paul Richards Posted February 8, 2019 Area Representative Share Posted February 8, 2019 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grumpy the 7th Posted February 9, 2019 Share Posted February 9, 2019 I had similar issues. I simply got a metal bar, drilled it with 2 holes the same size as the stud diameter at 4.25" apart and bolted it to the hub. The metal bar rested on the floor, the bar did begin to bend but I managed to crack the big nut (on the hub, not me) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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