General engine query

[CtrMint]

Guys,

I hope you don’t mind me posting a general engine query, but this forum seems the most technical and capable I’ve been a member of, so thought I’d ask.

Due to the issues I’ve had I’m behind schedule with my build, which for the Caterham isn’t an issue, but I’m getting increasingly concerned about my Exige not being started since October.   Is there anything I can do to minimise risk at first start, I’m assuming all oil has returned to the sump now, including the residual oil. I’ve no idea how to crank it over for oil pressure as per the 7 assembly manual.  Engine has about 5k miles, and is the V6.  Any advice appreciated,

[Tazio]

Take the plugs out, spin it up until you have pressure, plugs in, then start. If you can isolate the fuel pump before cranking to stop the fueling, all the better.

[Wrightpayne]

First start after winter I pull fuel pump fuse. If the battery in fine fettle just leave the plugs in and spin it up till get pressure.

[SLR No.77]

If I'm removing the spark plugs to crank it for oil pressure I'd normally just unplug the injector loom although the ability to do this may depend upon the particular engine install. in practice.

If it's just a case of the car being stood for a few months, with modern injection engines I just make sure the battery's charged and I start it.

Stu.

[HJF]

I’ve tried all these things in the past but now I have decided to go straight for a start.  With my Elise it fires first touch of the starter and pressure is up straight away even after a long stand.  After the car has stood for a while I worry if turning it over for a while to slowly build oil pressure before starting could ‘wipe’ the cam lobes from which most of the oil film has drained away whilst sat there for months? I may of course being totally neurotic about this though!  Reasoning was because a well respected engine builder advised me on first start of a rebuilt Lotus Twincam to remove the cam cover and give the cams a good flooding of engine oil to ensure the lobes were well oiled.

[CtrMint]

Removing the plugs does seem complex, its a v6 with supercharger.  If it had been an inline 4 maybe, but getting there seems quite difficult and I don't have any space around the car either.

I think the fuel pump fuse is probably the best I can manage.

[TomB]

If its only October 2018, I wouldn't worry on a modern engine. The oil pressure will build in seconds.  

[Jim 123]

You'll get pressure as soon as you crank the ignition, and remember you have about half a litre of oil that will be lurking in the pump, galleries and oil filter.  The Caterham Build Manual idea is, I suspect, mainly incase some numpty self builder forgets the initial fill in his race to hear the exhaust crackle and pop.

It is not unexpected that Toyota engines can sit dormant inside a vehicle in the supply chain for several months without turning over. 

[CtrMint]

Thanks, 

She's started fine.  I pulled the fuel pump relay, cranked it over for ~5secs, put the fuel pump relay back and she started immediately.  On first start the car did throw an EML, so I checked that with my OBDII reader, the code was P0628 Fuel Pump Control Circuit low.  I figure that was due to the relay, I cleared it and restarted the car, no EML.  She's run up to temp nicely and sounds fine.  Now just need spring or at least for the roads to clear of salt etc.

Oh and to finish my 7 build.....

[CtrMint]

Added to my blog, just in case you're interested https://www.caterham7diaries.com/420r/lotus-exige-first-start-of-2019

[Bricol]

You are better off leaving it sat until you want to actually use it - it might have got to temp sat there idling, but it certainly didn't get hot enough to boil the condensation off inside.

[TomB]

Must admit I've always taken a similar approach to Bricol above and just not started it until Im ready in the spring to bring it our of hibernation.  

[CtrMint]

The car got good and hot, running at 93 as it was stationary in the garage, that's normal, it usually runs at 87 on the road when moving.  Once at that temp, around 20mins in I blipped the throttle to around 3-4k and you could see the condensation being expelled from the exhaust so I'm pretty confident a lot has been removed.  After 4years it's only done 5k mostly dry miles anyway, so I'm unlikely to suffer exhaust/cat corrosion issues.

[ScottR400D]

The condensation you see is the moisture lying in the exhaust that condensed there when you last switched it off. 

It’s now been replaced by water that has condensed there when you switched it off this time........

The same process can happen in the crankcase which is how oils get contaminated by water, especially with a lot of cold starts/running.  

It really doesn’t help to just fire a car up and warm it up mid winter, though it’s unlikely to do much harm either unless you’re always doing it and you change the oil in a timely manner.