CtrMint Posted January 30, 2019 Share Posted January 30, 2019 Guys,Just a couple of minor build queries.Handbrake cable..... I'm struggling to sort the handbrake cable out, I've got it routed either side of the diff and around the drive shafts, then hooked into place on the callipers. I understand I need to tie it to the rear under the boot to keep it out of the shafts way, I'm struggling to get sufficient cable also wondering do I use a cradle clip into the wooden boot floor? Some pics would help thanks.Front wings.... Should I fit the front wings to the stays before adding the IVA trim, or add the trim before fitting to the car? What is the best strategy for getting the front wings straight, assuming the tracking isn't perfect? Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ChrisC Posted January 30, 2019 Share Posted January 30, 2019 Have the bleed the brakes? Don’t pull the handbrake until you have. If you have, wind the calipers back and start again. Once bleed, and pressed hard an few times to adjust the calipers/pads. Then fit and adjust the cable, once adjusted your find the cable will be a bit more balanced left and right and easier to position.I fitted the IVA trim before fitting the wings Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Petethediesel Posted January 30, 2019 Share Posted January 30, 2019 Fit the trims afterwards as you may need to trim around the stays. Thanks to the thread of "purple meanie" I found the best routing on the handbrake cable was to:a/ grind out the diff boss to provide a straight route for the cable rearwards. It bends past the lug otherwise about 3" beyond the chassis location bracket.b/ Use rubberised stainless P clips on the A frame. One on the A frame and one reversed onto the cable, piggy backed, on each side. This provides an elegant solution that ensures good clearance , in all areas, and no rubbing on paint surfaces. This was complimented by the IVA inspectors during the test this week. I'll lift the car and send photos if that helps/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CtrMint Posted January 30, 2019 Author Share Posted January 30, 2019 Guys, I've not put any fluids into the car and also pulled the handbrake when sorting the tension on the lever, so I guess that's not helped.If I understand you correctly I need to remove the shoes and the wind the piston back, and put fluid in, this will provide better clearance and then use back to back p-clips to hold the cable up and around the shaft. There is no need for a cradle clip on the boot.Have to say I don't fancy grinding the diff. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ChrisC Posted January 30, 2019 Share Posted January 30, 2019 Operating the foot brake adjusts the calipers then adjusting the handbrake, plenty of post on here about that process. I think the calipers doesn’t adjust properly if done the other way round. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Petethediesel Posted January 31, 2019 Share Posted January 31, 2019 The diff grinding is not major surgery. its an ear that just pushes the cable run sideways. only talking a few mm reduction not removal. I then used Sugru to hold the cable in place on the ear. Looks neat and gives a straight cable run. The purple meanie link I sent you a while back has this photographed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CtrMint Posted January 31, 2019 Author Share Posted January 31, 2019 Pete I noticed Purplemeanie used cable ties to hold the cable up also, is that normal? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Petethediesel Posted January 31, 2019 Share Posted January 31, 2019 Mark, I found that no cable ties were needed by using sugru at the ground ear point. I moulded it round the cable and onto the reduced lug. Looks tidy and in conjunction with the piggy back clips it is all clear of the drive shaft. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jim 123 Posted January 31, 2019 Share Posted January 31, 2019 Mark, what you have done in the recent photo is not right. I suggest you refer to the pre Ikea build manual which from memory has a similar piccy. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CtrMint Posted January 31, 2019 Author Share Posted January 31, 2019 Jim, are you referring to the image above? That’s actually from the PurpleMeanie blog, I inserted as an example of the cable ties.I have been reading the older manual, it makes it sound so simple, but following that I seem to close to the shafts. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jim 123 Posted January 31, 2019 Share Posted January 31, 2019 Nope that does not fit with my recollection of the picture in the Manual. I have a look for it later if that helps Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kiloromeo Posted January 31, 2019 Share Posted January 31, 2019 Hello MarkI've recently had a go at the handbrake cable too, and I decided to fit an 'L' shaped metal bracket to the underside of the wooden plank (flatish head in the boot for the carpet), and from that leg I've bolted a 'P' clip so its rubber loop is about 2-3" below the wood, and the cable will go through this. I can't photograph it as its disassembled waiting for final fit. I didn't fancy cable clips or taking an angle grinder to the installed diff ! Front wings - I fitted the IVA trim to them beforehand as I thought it easier with full control of the superglue, and also wanted to get some Dinitrol stonechip on the underside after the trim, rather than before. Still managed to get superglue on the paintwork ! (anyone know how to get this off?) " What is the best strategy for getting the front wings straight, assuming the tracking isn't perfect?" Method I used (borrowed from blogs)... With the wheels on (car on ground is best), mark the centreline of the tyres front and rear. Find and mark on masking tape the centreline front and rear of the wings, sit them on the stays, adjust for the 80mm at the front, then tweek until all lines up ok. A spirit level on the top will then tell you if you need to adjust the stays to suit. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jim 123 Posted January 31, 2019 Share Posted January 31, 2019 To be honest the IVA trims will self grip to the wings and stay in place without the need for glue. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Vine Posted February 1, 2019 Share Posted February 1, 2019 If it helps, these are the AG photos I have for the handbrake cable: JV Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris_Beaven Posted March 13, 2019 Share Posted March 13, 2019 Any further views on the handbrake cable being tied to the A-frame, or diagonal chassis rail? While Purplemeanie used double P-clips, I've also see people simply cable tying the cable to one of these points.Basically I'm wondering the latest IVA 'guidelines' on this i.e. P-clip or cable tie, and A-frame vs. chassis rail. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Vine Posted March 13, 2019 Share Posted March 13, 2019 This is from CC's latest (2015) IVA Checklist:I don't know whether this meets current IVA requirements.JV Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alan Reeves Posted March 13, 2019 Share Posted March 13, 2019 Just a small warning, you have a BMW diff, those with Fords were routed differently! It cost me half a day before CC realised they had still got the Ford set up in the manual and I needed to re route it.Just in case you are getting different stories etc Alan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Area Representative Geoff Brown Posted March 15, 2019 Area Representative Share Posted March 15, 2019 The Caterham advice to utilise two tie warps to attach the hand brake cable to the A Frame diagonal is OK but in use the cable tends to migrate around the diagonal & often along it. Subsequently this can lead to rubbing of the anti roll bar bush blocks & the forward face of the De Dion tube. Also the movement damages the A Frame diagonal powder coat.I was continually repositioning the cable & renewing the tie wraps so instead I fitted two P Clips vertically on each A Frame diagonal. One 19mm clip to the diagonal & dependent on the spec of the cable outer a 10, 11 or 12mm clip.When the clips are adjusted to allow for all the necessary clearances this installation works well & looks 'professional'. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CtrMint Posted March 15, 2019 Author Share Posted March 15, 2019 I've spent the afternoon at my local specialist South Coast and the owner has also recommended the P-clip approach. I'm going back down tomorrow morning to finish off a few other jobs including a flat flooring the car, will be adding the P-Clips tomorrow too.Overall there's been very few things wrong with the build. The worst issue was weeping brake lines still. Would you believe it the brake union inside the front nearside was weeping which required the catch tank to be removed, and yes the rad top hose of again! FFS the design is a numb as it comes. Coolant went everywhere!We also made an interesting discovery regarding the front upright assembly. The owner felt the hub nut was too tight, even though it was supplied pre-assembled. The hub didn't rotate with sufficient ease on both sides of the car. We took the front calliper and discs off, and removed the hub nut etc. We found virtually no grease inside on both of the inner races. We've now greased both bearings and the hub runs much better. It's a bit of concern CC shipped like that. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CtrMint Posted March 15, 2019 Author Share Posted March 15, 2019 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CtrMint Posted March 15, 2019 Author Share Posted March 15, 2019 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pgm Posted March 15, 2019 Share Posted March 15, 2019 We have been repacking the front wheel bearings especially on new cars for years now. Seems to be a very common issue. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CtrMint Posted March 16, 2019 Author Share Posted March 16, 2019 Not great for an amateur build such as myself, especially when the whole assembly, brakes, discs, uprights etc comes pre-assembly to drop onto the lower wishbone.Anyone previously discussed this with CC? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Vine Posted March 16, 2019 Share Posted March 16, 2019 Anyone previously discussed this with CC?Bit of 2014 history here. I don't know what CC's current view is on this, but as it seems to be a continuing problem, they don't appear to have got on top of it yet.JV Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Vine Posted March 16, 2019 Share Posted March 16, 2019 We've now greased both bearings and the hub runs much better.Out of interest, did you re-tighten the hub nut to the original position or did you slacken it off slightly? The reason I ask is that the original grease, although sparse, looks to be worked into the rollers well enough -- sufficient at least to allow a brand-new hub to spin freely. If so, that suggests the nut was over-tightened from the start.JV Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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