johnnyseven Posted January 20, 2019 Share Posted January 20, 2019 going to remove the engine/ box on a R400D - any tips or things I should be aware of? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
raw Posted January 20, 2019 Share Posted January 20, 2019 Split the engine and gearbox and remove separately to save pouring gearbox oil all over the garage floor. Engine can be removed using the engine crane whilst gearbox can be supported on a trolley jack and then slid forward to remove from the car, keeping it horizontal as it is lowered to the floor. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony Whitley Posted January 21, 2019 Share Posted January 21, 2019 I recommend splitting it too, though as my car has the inboard suspension in the way it’s a bit of a special case - it will just come out in one piece (pouring the gearbox oil all over the floor as raw says) but is very hard to get back in like that. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ChrisC Posted January 21, 2019 Share Posted January 21, 2019 I removed mine with a engine hoist leveler, makes the process very easy, but I did fine the lifting eyes being off set on the block causes the engine to twist as the angle is increased. To resolve that I leave left hand side engine mount on the block (not exhaust side), and use a small ratchet strip from the mount to the hoist to keep the engine from twisting.A question for the "splitters" when you put the engine back in do you do it joined to the gearbox? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Vine Posted January 21, 2019 Share Posted January 21, 2019 Hi Johnny,In an S3 like yours, you'll need to remove the alternator first, otherwise the pulley will catch on the top cruciform -- as I discovered during my build:And I agree about the leveller (you can borrow mine if you want).Re covering the garage floor with oil, you could plug the gearbox tail with the blue plastic bung that comes with a new box. (I have a spare one you can have if you'd like it.) You'll need an assistant to do this, and to have quick reactions when the prop detaches!(I've never tried splitting box and engine , so can't comment on that.)JV Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Area Representative Geoff Brown Posted January 21, 2019 Area Representative Share Posted January 21, 2019 Surely the gear box top attachment bolts must be a swine to access ?Recommended - remove the dynamo & bracket before pulling the engine - then have an origami experience refitting. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony Whitley Posted January 21, 2019 Share Posted January 21, 2019 I have put mine back in as a unit (a real of a job but as I said I do have the inboard suspension in the way making things worse) and split (much easier, mainly because the engine just dropped in vertically). The gear box top attachment bolts were not a problem. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ScottR400D Posted January 21, 2019 Share Posted January 21, 2019 I think there’s a lot of good advice above, though I would drain the box and bring out as a unit, which is much easier in an SV! Interestingly, (to me at least!) when I built my car I called CC to query something about the clutch/box installation; nothing in particular, I can’t even recall what it was but in the conversation, the guy I was talking to recommended putting the box in first and then the engine, even though the assembly manual said join them and fit as one.After a lot of thought I preassembled and the installation was one of the easier parts of the build, it went in very easily and that’s why I would favour that method for removal and refitting. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Vine Posted January 21, 2019 Share Posted January 21, 2019 ...I called CC to query something about the clutch/box installation; nothing in particular, I can’t even recall what it was...It wasn't to do with the clutch slave cylinder, by any chance? During my build, I'd just installed the engine/gearbox (as a unit) when it crossed my mind that I hadn't checked whether the slave mounting bolts were torqued up. I had visions of having to take it all out again, but fortunately CC advised that, yes, that had all been done at the factory.JV Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ScottR400D Posted January 21, 2019 Share Posted January 21, 2019 Yes, it was but, IIRC, I noticed that the pipe into the slave was loose after I’d bolted the bell to the engine and wondered if there was a way to tighten it without unbolting. There wasn’t any way so I split it again, easy enough to do before fitting into the car. Something like that. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnnyseven Posted January 21, 2019 Author Share Posted January 21, 2019 Thanks for all the replies- does the oil filter need to be removed and the starter?- doesn't seem much wiggle room on that side of the engine- and looking under the roller barrels there seems to be part of the loom that seems to run between the side of the engine and the cable bracket of the barrels- does it have a connector somewhere?hi John- I've borrowed David M's hoist and equaliser- so I'm sorted on that score thanks- but not sure if it's best to get a couple of stropes or try to get some engine hooks that would fit a duratec. May well take you up on the gearbox bung though!cheers johnny Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ChrisC Posted January 21, 2019 Share Posted January 21, 2019 I remove alternator and plenum, but leave the starter and oil filter in place Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnnyseven Posted January 22, 2019 Author Share Posted January 22, 2019 If the starter & filter can stay that's good- still got to get at the oil cooler pipes attached to the oil filter housing- is it necessary to drain the oil from sump or not?-only it doesn't need changing Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ChrisC Posted January 22, 2019 Share Posted January 22, 2019 If you have a modine (oil / water) oil cooler attached to the oil filter, I didn't remove the hose off the oil cooler end, but I did disconnect the other end. If you have a wet sump, then the engine oil does not need to be drained, only the gearbox oil if you don't have a bung Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Vine Posted January 22, 2019 Share Posted January 22, 2019 You can leave the starter and oil filter attached. IIRC, your oil cooler is like mine, in front of the rad. If so, just detach the oil pipes from the cooler and lift up out of the way. No need to drain the engine oil.Re the straps, I used the chains that came with the leveller, hooked around the existing lifting eyes:I've also got some straps you can borrow if you want.Re the blue plug, I'll post my spare one to you. Then you'll have a choice between bunging and draining.JV Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Area Representative Geoff Brown Posted January 22, 2019 Area Representative Share Posted January 22, 2019 I agree with all above, starter & oil filter can be left on. Advisable to remove plenum &/or RBTB trumpets - a pain but better than getting damaged on engine installation.I fitted engine & gearbox as a unit - it was a bit of a swine as I did not have a leveler so the unit came partially out several times to adjust the chains to get the correct angle. The clearance from the S3 chassis front cross bars is fag paper thin so much so I had to remove the pipe insulation a substitute with thin card board. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Vine Posted January 22, 2019 Share Posted January 22, 2019 Agree that a leveller makes the job so much easier:JV Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnnyseven Posted January 22, 2019 Author Share Posted January 22, 2019 Morning John- the bung would be much appreciated- the engine lifting eyes?- did these come with the kit? Are they a standard ford part- would get a bit more control with lifting eyes than straps?Geoff- that close!- so my pipe lagging maybe to thick lol Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnnyseven Posted January 22, 2019 Author Share Posted January 22, 2019 Nice photo John- oh for all that space- I'm doing it in a single garage with 2 washing machines/ tumble dryer and a fridge freezer for company- if I wanted too I wouldn't be able to swing a cat in there- I'm going for the engine lift and push the car out the door! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ChrisC Posted January 22, 2019 Share Posted January 22, 2019 The problem I found is a twist the leveller introduces makes getting the gearbox into the chassis more difficult, hence my third ratchet strap to level it across the engine. The twist is introduced because the lifting eyelets are diagonal across the block, i guess that's because they are designed for transverse mounting. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Vine Posted January 22, 2019 Share Posted January 22, 2019 Hi Johnny,My engine came with the lifting eyes already fitted. There are two, bolted to the cylinder head, one at the rear O/S, and the other at the front N/S: I presume they came that way from Ford. As your R400D was factory built, perhaps CC took them off before delivery?If you like, I could take mine off and post them to you (provided you promise to return them!), along with the bung. Alternatively, I guess you could ask CC if they have some kicking around? JV Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnnyseven Posted January 22, 2019 Author Share Posted January 22, 2019 Yes I'm going to split the engine/ box and lift the engine as space is a problem- Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Vine Posted January 22, 2019 Share Posted January 22, 2019 Hi Johnny,I'll be posting the blue bung to you tomorrow. Would you like me to include the lifting eyes?JV Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnnyseven Posted January 22, 2019 Author Share Posted January 22, 2019 Hi John- yes that would be much appreciated- becoming bit of a habit me borrowing your kit- we must meet up when I've re-assembled the car- I would like to see how your tb's were set-up- ie how close they got them if they didn't use the air bleeds to get them all pulling the same.johnny Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Vine Posted January 23, 2019 Share Posted January 23, 2019 Parcel on its way -- should reach you by the w/e.JV Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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