ECR Posted January 27, 2019 Share Posted January 27, 2019 From my notes when enquiring about fitting a torque bias diff .... "Quaiffe say differential is self fit-maybe a little work with a rasp or file on the alloy casing one of the side cheeks to get it in" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
p.mole1 Posted January 27, 2019 Author Share Posted January 27, 2019 Thanks looks a like a few hours removing metal ! I thought it was a tight fit Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
p.mole1 Posted January 27, 2019 Author Share Posted January 27, 2019 Thanks for the help I didn't want to start grinding the case if it wasn't necessary. I didn't actually need to remove as much as I thought. Any tips for fitting the oil seals, I got the bearings and races on no problem,but the oil seals are proving a real problem I've wrecked the first one they are a unbelievably tight fit Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
p.mole1 Posted January 30, 2019 Author Share Posted January 30, 2019 can anyone recommend a cheap tool/drift for installing the oil seals into the Sierra diff? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
7 wonders of the world Posted January 30, 2019 Share Posted January 30, 2019 Easier to press them in whilst the cups are out of the final drive Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
p.mole1 Posted February 2, 2019 Author Share Posted February 2, 2019 I tried with covers removed but the oil seal was so tight I damaged it. I have bought a bearing press and will try that Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
p.mole1 Posted February 4, 2019 Author Share Posted February 4, 2019 I'm struggling to make sense of the Ford repair procedure for the diff. How critical is the preload on the diff bearings? It states the following.60.Adjust the bearings. 1 Turn the differential several times to settle the bearings. 2 Adjust the bearing housings until they make contact with the taper roller bearings; there must be appreciable backlash.What the hell does that mean " adjust the bearings till they make contact with the taper roller bearings". It's a bit vague?. The easy part is the backlash no problems with that, I am worried about over/under tightening the bearings I don't want a noisy diff. My current diff is quiet as a church mouse and I would like to keep it that way!. I have noticed that diff noise seems to be an issue with some cars and mine was replaced under warranty by Caterham in 1996! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
7 wonders of the world Posted February 4, 2019 Share Posted February 4, 2019 most final drives are built by 'feel' not much help to you but.... even the when I've built to specs theres always a degree of feel in it.The noisey final drives were recon ones used by CC that were built with the wrong backlash spec....... If your using genuine Ford CWP and the correct setting you should be fine Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TRP Posted February 5, 2019 Share Posted February 5, 2019 Adjust the bearings until they make contact means just that! As you tighten the housings the races will be brought together until they contact each other. You are feeling for when you feel the races come together which will be felt by an increased resistance when turning the housings. You do this with a greater backlash than you aim to finish with to ensure the mesh of the gears isn’t too tight effecting the feel of the bearing contact. You then work from this point to set your 0.01mm backlash by moving the housings together at the point of contact. Then once you have 0.01mm backlash you correctly pre load the bearings by turning one housing a further 4 castellations. You should then have 0.12mm backlash and correctly preloaded bearings. It’s a job that takes a certain amount of ‘engineering feel’ which has to be honed with experience. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
p.mole1 Posted February 13, 2019 Author Share Posted February 13, 2019 Oil seals now in and the tooth contact was perfect. The pre-load and backlash took a fair bit of time but hopefully it's all ok Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
p.mole1 Posted February 20, 2019 Author Share Posted February 20, 2019 I'm about to fit the diff, any tips? I haven't had look yet. do I need to remove the boot floor? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TomB Posted February 20, 2019 Share Posted February 20, 2019 Having just removed my diff, Id say yes, removing the front half of the boot floor would make it much easier. Aside from anything else, standing at the rear of the car you can get the spanners in from above to the long top bolt, and you'll be in the right place to manipulate the jack. Don't forget to put the prop shaft in first, and the spacer washers between the chassis mounts and diff. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
p.mole1 Posted February 20, 2019 Author Share Posted February 20, 2019 Thanks, I'm hoping to get it in this weekend Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
p.mole1 Posted February 25, 2019 Author Share Posted February 25, 2019 Diff back in it took 20 minutes with the boot floor in place, couldn't have been easier! I used a jack and a helper. Put the long bolt in first without any washers, centralized the diff and put in the lower bolts removed the top bolt and replaced it with the required spacers, only needed a tap from a rubber mallet. Prop shaft bolts were the most awkward. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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