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1.8 power


p.mole1

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I would match the TBs, the higher port line definitely helps airflow. 45mm TBs will be too large and cost you some torque. You dont need too much contact area for the top of the port, 3-4mm is enough, just make sure you use the right gasket and that it also matches the inlet port shape of the head.

Oily

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It fired up eventually once I realised the spark plug leads were wrongly positioned on the distributor cap, the huge flame out of the throttle body give it away. I was running very lean but I haven't put Oilys engine map in yet and I only had it running in the garage to check for leaks.

My water rail is a poor fit and used to leak it needs either bending or bit grinding off the mounting point on the head. Since I've just had it powder coated I tried running a bead of RTV onto the gasket bolting it on loosely waiting for it to cure then bolting it down and it seems to have worked.

I'm quite surprised how it ticks over you would think it had standard cams in, should have gone for something wilder?  

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  • 2 weeks later...

It's all in and ready to go! just need some dry salt free roads to give it a test. I'm expecting to need clean underpants after the test ! . The Radtec radiator fitted a treat and actually allows the nose cone to fit easily for the first timeIMG_3496_0.thumb.JPG.a655a469d893904a1e99ec20fa397346.JPG

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Glad the VVC mechs have gone to a good home, their can't be many new unused ones knocking about. Took the car out for a quick run today just to check everything, no coolant or oil leaks. It seems to go ok and really seems to pick up at around 5000 rpm but I couldn't open it up, will have to wait for some decent weather.

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Re: the water rail.

Fit the rail with a new gasket and a thin bead of sealant (Loctite 5926) on each side of the gasket, and fasten up tight at the gasket end ... but do not tighten the bolt that secures the small support tab at the forward end. When it's located at the gasket end check the space behind the support tab and use a suitable washer to keep the tab spaced out from the head. There's generally a small gap, I've yet to come across one where the support tab is hard against the head after tightening the gasket face.

Guaranteed not to leak :)

Stu.

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I had to bend my water rail as the front tab was hard against the block and holding the flange off. Once bent never had a leak and as Stu noted I did need a washer too after tweaking it!

Another thing that can cause leaks is the two flange bolts bottoming out in the head. A washer may suffice or shorten / replace the bolts.

Ian

 

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Took the car out for a run today, but cold track day tyres and and damp roads are not a good combination.

I couldn't give it more than half throttle without loosing traction. Hopefully I will have my Quaiffe diff built up and in by March. I hope to have it on a rolling road by then. 

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Went out today, dry roads and it all was going well, managed to give it full throttle until I developed a huge misfire. I had no tools and had left my mobile in the garage! Managed to limp back 10 miles on 3 cylinders. Turns out I was expecting too much from the Magnecor leads and one popped off no 4 cylinder. I need to get a set of leads 10 mm longer.

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IMG_3527_LI.thumb.jpg.bbcb622eb26e0e9c58cefac2cc018408.jpg Thanks alloy radiators do seem to have some problems! it's a tiny leak but it shouldn't have one and it could get worse. Also my Accusump has failed yet again. When it works it's a good system however the pressure switch which is set to 35 psi keeps failing. This one lasted probably  less than 100 cycles!

The switch cost £102 on closer inspection it is just a 1/4 NPT oil pressure switch and they are just not designed to handle the current from a solenoid and the contacts are failing. I am hoping Merlin Motorsport will refund me and I am going to use an adjustable oil pressure switch and run it through a relay to take the load off the switch contacts, hopefully that will fix the problem.

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Also had a problem with my Radtec rad but to be fair to them they responded very well. Sent me a replacement immediately and I used the packaging from the replacement to return the damaged rad.

Obviously prefer not to have the problem in the first place but couldn't fault their handling of it.

Steve

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Hi Elie, the Accusump is controlled by a solenoid which is switched via a pressure switch. The pressure switches are oil pressure light warning switches and are not designed to handle the load imposed by a solenoid and they burn out in a few cycles!  

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I've got say very disappointed by the response from the vendor about my Accusump switch which lasted one track day and couple of trips on the road. The switch cost over £100 and they seem to think because it has been used I cannot claim a refund!. Can you name and shame? 

I have returned them an email quoting the sale of goods act, lets see what happens 

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