BrianHorn Posted March 7, 2003 Share Posted March 7, 2003 Here's one for the experienced! What does the 'upgraded' crossflow engine get over a standard overhaul? I've been quoted around 140bhp. How is this achieved? Iv'e taken my crossflow out now but had to cut the rubber dipstick pipe to get at the last bolt connecting engine block to bellhousing, what length should this pipe be as it looks too short! The dipstick didn't seem to seat properly, perhaps it is the wrong one!? The oil dipstick shows a 711M number but can't find a 711M anywhere on the block? All help gratefully received Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Casbar Posted March 7, 2003 Share Posted March 7, 2003 Here goes, although I'm bound to miss something: Bore out to 1700, fit 83.5 forged pistons, fit 244 cam. Then have engine balanced, flywheel lightened. Steel rocker gear and posts. Duplex timing chain, dowl flywheel on, work on the head, mine is a stage 3 unleaded head, work on the porting. Fit side exit exhaust, electric fuel pump, high pressure oil pump and a decent ignition system (lucas comp, cheeper option) As for the dip stick, I have an alloy sump, so the dipstick will be different. If you don't have a 711M block you may have a AX block, which would mean you could go to 1800. The 711M and cast number should be on the exhaust side of the block near the bell housing. My engine showed 140 at the wheels on the rolling road, so mine is nearer to 160 at the flywheel. Loads of grunt Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rory Posted March 7, 2003 Share Posted March 7, 2003 😬 Casbar you were absolutely right, you forgot Carbs !! ---john--- Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BrianHorn Posted March 10, 2003 Author Share Posted March 10, 2003 I've got the following numbers on my engine. 174959 Stamped into ledge top of block exhaust side. (Recognised on V5 as official engine no.) XTKD09B883 Stamped into thin alu plate stuck onto block at bellhousing pick-up point. 25 H 87 Cast onto block behind alternator location point. 831C 6015R34 Cast onto block behind alternator location point. 731M 6K318 AA Cast onto plate surounding crankshaft rear seal behind flywheel. 771M 6K318 BA Cast onto plate surounding crankshaft rear seal behind flywheel. Ford SAGE 1 Cast onto plate surounding crankshaft rear seal behind flywheel. 711M6750 CA Cast onto lower part of dipstick. 751M6K815 FA Printed on side of rubber dipstick tube. Anyone know what they mean? ie which block do I have? 🤔 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter T Posted March 10, 2003 Share Posted March 10, 2003 That will be a 711m block then. Power Freak member! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clay Head Posted March 10, 2003 Share Posted March 10, 2003 I have just gone to DTA mapped ignition on my 1800 xflow and have some bits that will be of use that have done about 300 miles! Kent 244 cam just perfectly run in Lucas coil - top quality and new Aldon distributor and ignitor pack to suit tuned xflow - perfect condition. Let me know if you want them. 07764 879776. As another tuning hint, look at the inlet manifold. It can be seriously improved by using Aluminium weld followed by smoothing ogff to form a beautifully flowing inlet rather than the rather poor standard one. Dave Brooks engines in Crewe did a superb job on mine and the induction noise now tells the tale of more power! He is on 01270 661850. (You could organise to just mail it to him). Tim Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
strongy Posted March 10, 2003 Share Posted March 10, 2003 I think that the 831C pre-fix is the same as that of an AX block. I'll check tomorrow. Cheers Strongy - go on, wake the neighbours. 😬 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roel Bergers Posted March 11, 2003 Share Posted March 11, 2003 Yes, 831C is an AX block. This is confirmed by Roger King when I asked him 2 years ago. regards, Roel. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BrianHorn Posted March 11, 2003 Author Share Posted March 11, 2003 Thanks for all your help guys! Keep it coming. This is my first seven and I'm a bit of a novice still! But all your input is gratefully received. Also I'm based in Germany and there aren't too many experienced 'seveners' out here in my area that I know of. If my block therefore IS an AX block, as you suggest then what length/type should the dipstick be? The problem is that I've only just bought the car and on my way home from UK it started spraying oil all over the underside of the car. We assumed the rear crank seal had let go, but there seems to be oil seeping from more than one area! Therefore I'm thinking that the engine was overfilled at the 'workshops' according to the dipstick but this of course may not necessarily be the correct one. Hence all the apparently stupid questions! Thanks, Brian Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
puremalt Posted March 11, 2003 Share Posted March 11, 2003 You'd be amazed at how a little oil goes a long way. The x flow holds comparatively a small volume of oil < 4 litres compared to a k series, so its easy to overfill. I have smoked all the way through town and had to stop because I couldn't see in the past due to doing this. The whole engine was plastered in oil. Won't rust though on the positive side Mine Farts and Belches Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Midnight Posted March 12, 2003 Share Posted March 12, 2003 As you may know, If you have a modified ie, higher ground clearance sump then the marks on the standard dispstick will no longer be accurate. With my cross flow following an oil filter change I very carefully measured out the exact quantity of oil (as per the capacity table in the handbook) for the XF plus a small amount extra to cover the needs of the filter and oil cooler. Once this was in the car and pumped rounded the system, I made a note of where the oil came up to on the dipstick, which of course was nowhere near any of the established marks, and then filed a new mark on the dipstick at the highest point that the oil reached. Hope this is of use. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
needmorecash Posted March 13, 2003 Share Posted March 13, 2003 hey ive got a 1600 crossflow How do i make it into an 1800 😬 😬 😬 sound velly good to me Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Graham Sewell Posted March 13, 2003 Share Posted March 13, 2003 If it has an AX block - give it to Roger King! Low tech luddite - xflow and proud! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BrianHorn Posted March 13, 2003 Author Share Posted March 13, 2003 I believe it is an AX block but I ain't got a spare 3 grand at the moment! ☹️ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Philippe Giroulle Posted March 13, 2003 Share Posted March 13, 2003 I'm in the same position as yours Brain. Therefore I'm thinking of having the cylinder head gasflowed as a first step and have the rest done when funds permit. It seems this will already give some extra BHP but I'm wondering if it's not a waste of money when going for the next step . That is the bore to 1700cc. Any suggestions or experiences would certainly help 😬 Philippe Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Graham Sewell Posted March 13, 2003 Share Posted March 13, 2003 Assuming that you have got the 1600 sprint engine (100bhp on twin Weber 40s) I doubt that you can do very much without going to at least the supersprint spec. Depending on who does the building, this is likely to be less than 3,000. Bear in mind that a large part of the money supplied to Roger King is for the really nice bits such as forged pistons. For example, Vulcan engineering will do an exchange 1700cc engine to 135bhp with Kent 234 cam and various bits for about £1200. However, as Roger would probably suggest, taking an unknown engine and stressing like that is not necessarily the recipe for longevity. Equally, ProTune (@Ratrace) will rebuild engines. I have no 1st hand knowledge of the quality of the work done by any engine rebuilder as mine is still running too well (@24,000 miles) to get it rebuilt. Low tech luddite - xflow and proud! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BrianHorn Posted March 13, 2003 Author Share Posted March 13, 2003 Hi Phillipe, I'm afraid I'm not going to be of much help to you at the moment as I am a complete novice!! My xflow is already 1700cc(SuperSprint) and as the compression is low on three cylinders, I'm only looking at the moment to have it checked out and 'refreshed'. To my inexperienced mind(please correct me if I'm wrong) it may be unwise to try to gain a significant increase in power from the top end work if the bottom end has not yet been strenghthened to cope with it!? Anyone's view is most welcome! Brian 🤔 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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