ScottR400D Posted December 24, 2018 Share Posted December 24, 2018 Mildly surprised that you didn’t go for the big brakes. Not essential I guess but nice to have if you do a few track days. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
7 wonders of the world Posted December 24, 2018 Share Posted December 24, 2018 Er no !Big AP brakes were used for endurance racing as the offered a larger pad area which could run for 24 hour without the need for change,Then CC PR got hold of it............. and it became an essential upgrade Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bricol Posted December 25, 2018 Share Posted December 25, 2018 Certainly found the back brakes fade well before the standard fronts . . . in-fact I can't remember ever fading the front ones in 17yrs of abuse . . . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bricol Posted December 25, 2018 Share Posted December 25, 2018 Certainly found the back brakes fade well before the standard fronts . . . in-fact I can't remember ever fading the front ones in 17yrs of abuse . . . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CtrMint Posted February 1, 2019 Author Share Posted February 1, 2019 Hi All,I'm pleased to report I received an email from Derek @ CC today, confirming he has shipped a replacement radiator with a new bracket design. Derek also sent photos through, I guess to illustrate how it works, my initial impressions are that it looks to be a neat and simple solution. I hope to receive the radiator early next week.The design is likely to become the new revised solution for all cars, and if not I do have an agreement with CC they will still provide the final solution to me regards. Although I'll certainly be happy with their current solution. Can't wait Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Vine Posted February 1, 2019 Share Posted February 1, 2019 Well played, CC. Always good to hear of a positive reaction to a customer's problem. Presumably, this fixes the poor fit in the nosecone, as well as the bobbin? Does it fix the hose alignment too? And can you post up photos, or will they be on your blog?JV Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CtrMint Posted February 2, 2019 Author Share Posted February 2, 2019 From the looks of it, the revision pulls the radiator closer to the body and thus moves it along the nose where the nose has had chance to rise further, hence providing more clearance. I'd solved the bobbin issue myself, however, the new solution means the bobbin is lower and therefore doesn't foul against the top rad hose, the normal bobbin can be used.I'm not sure as I've not seen the solution in person, but I suspect there may be a slant on the radiator as the bottom fixing looks unchanged, I guess the bracket has changed on the radiator itself to accommodate for the lower bobbin point so I'm not sure if that will account for that. I don't suppose Derek will mind me sharing their photo, see below. I of course, will share detailed photos on my build blog once it arrives. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ChrisC Posted February 2, 2019 Share Posted February 2, 2019 If that was my car, I would prefer to fit the new drop bracket to the original chassis rad bracket with a hex bolt and loc nut, instead of a cap head bolt. There is no way you could remove the bracket without removing the radiator first with this solution using a cap head bolt. Switching to a hex bolt you could easily remove the rad without removing the bobins. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CtrMint Posted February 2, 2019 Author Share Posted February 2, 2019 Sound advice Chris thanks, I've got plenty of spare hex bolts so shouldn't be an issue. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jim 123 Posted February 2, 2019 Share Posted February 2, 2019 Hexes and schor washers look like a good idea. It'll be interesting to see what the accessibility to the bobbins is like with the ARB and its mounts in place. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ChrisC Posted February 2, 2019 Share Posted February 2, 2019 Yes good point Jim, fitting the ARB with the original rad fitted it tight, and this looks even closer. Makes my hex bolt idea even more important. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CtrMint Posted February 2, 2019 Author Share Posted February 2, 2019 Don't forget I've also sourced some smaller bobbins (see earlier posts) that will help with any proximity issues.Out of interest, any tips for getting the arb ball joints into place. I've got the first in, haven't managed the second and its on my list to go back too. Seems brute force isn't the way, well I can't get enough support on something to force it in, any tips?Its current sat in the socket, just not home.Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Vine Posted February 2, 2019 Share Posted February 2, 2019 That looks promising. Presumably the lower rad mountings will need matching brackets?JV Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CtrMint Posted February 2, 2019 Author Share Posted February 2, 2019 LLower bracket above. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ChrisC Posted February 2, 2019 Share Posted February 2, 2019 Take the powder coat off in the cup with a dremel, and then pack it the grease, or try to reduce the size of the ball. The balls wear anyway, so removing the powder coat makes fitting the next set easy, and the grease stop any rust issues. It’s all kept clean with the rubber boot. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Vine Posted February 3, 2019 Share Posted February 3, 2019 That bracket looks like the standard set-up, so I'm puzzled now. Have CC reduced the vertical distance between the mounting slots on the replacement rad? (Or have I missed something?)JV Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CtrMint Posted February 3, 2019 Author Share Posted February 3, 2019 Yes I believe the lower bracket remains the same whilst the top had been lowered and hooked underneath the chassis mount. Their approach is to bring the top of the radiator inward away from the nose and clear the top hose. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Vine Posted February 3, 2019 Share Posted February 3, 2019 Hmm....The top face of the rad appears to be at the same height, although it's tipped back slightly, and the bottom is in the original place. So, have CC shortened the angled mounting plate on the side of the rad? Or have they redesigned the rad? Also, it appears they've dispensed with the underslung oil cooler section altogether, or is that simply the effect of parallax? Or is the rad in their photo not the current 420R one: If so, where does the cooler go now? I guess we'll have to wait until your new rad arrives to find out!JV Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CtrMint Posted February 3, 2019 Author Share Posted February 3, 2019 John, I think it goes below, CC are I assume expecting me to swap it over, the brackets are at the bottom, sorry I didn't post every image CC sent. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Vine Posted February 3, 2019 Share Posted February 3, 2019 Aha...It looks like CC have shortened the angled mounting plates (on both sides, presumably). This lowers the top mounting slots for the modified bracket extensions. The end result is that the whole rad maintains its original position vertically , but is tilted backwards slightly at the top to improve nosecone clearance. If that's the case, I think it's a neat solution.As for the oil cooler, I guess it simply bolts on underneath.JV Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Petethediesel Posted February 3, 2019 Share Posted February 3, 2019 Fine wet and dry to remove the internal paint. Put a small amount of grease on the ball and inset. Too much grease will prevent the ball fully seating. You will then find the other ball can be inserted with a firm push on the bar (similarly light greased.) Brute force (mallets etc) will break the plastic ball. Add more grease once fully home. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CtrMint Posted February 5, 2019 Author Share Posted February 5, 2019 Here it is! Have to say I'm weirdly super excited to have received it.I've swapped over the oil cooler already, but will fit my headlights first before fitting the radiator so that I can see what I'm doing from the front of the car when dealing with the wiring. I suspect it will be a couple more days until I have more details of how the radiator goes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Vine Posted February 5, 2019 Share Posted February 5, 2019 Good news! And yes, CC have shortened the angled mounting plates as surmised.JV Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CtrMint Posted February 5, 2019 Author Share Posted February 5, 2019 Headlights are on, and front ARB finally sorted, exhausted fighting with that second ball.Ready for the rad tomorrow. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CtrMint Posted February 6, 2019 Author Share Posted February 6, 2019 I didn't swap the bolt out in the end as it made now difference, the rad still mount in the same way using the bobbin etc. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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