ChrisC Posted November 18, 2018 Share Posted November 18, 2018 Hi All I am looking for some example photos of help the 420R plastic wedge sump protection should be fitted. I suspect mine is fitted incorrectly, as a result of a poorly fitted dry sump, which has leaked oil from the rear near the flywheel since fitting. Photos from a kit or a recent factory build with the same spec would be prefect. So here is my sump protection.The bolt from the bell housing into the protection block (marked with the red arrow) does not align with the threaded. whole in the plastic block. There are no fixings through the hole on the bottom (blue arrow), Green arrow shows the only set screws fixings fitted. Orange arrow shows a gap between the sump and the protection. Yellow arrow the oil. Does this look right?Can you confirm blue arrow holes don't have fixings, and a bolt through from the bell housing, and do you have the orange gap? Chris. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikecocker Posted November 18, 2018 Share Posted November 18, 2018 Hi Chris,You should have 2 shoulder bolts at red arrows plus the 2 screws at green arrow. Nothing at blue arrow. Have you got the shoulder bolts with the reduced thread size, or are you trying to fit standard cap head bolts as per rest of bell housing?If you remove the plate, clean behind it and refit with shoulder bolts first, but only lightly tightened, and then screws. I found this to be easiest.If you have removed the finger filter when changing oil, this will find it's way behind plate. I always remove plate when changing oil to avoid this. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ChrisC Posted November 18, 2018 Author Share Posted November 18, 2018 The shoulder bolts where included, but have since gone missing, not fitted or returned. :-(What about the gap, I assume fitted correctly there isn’t as much as I have?I still think it’s all got to be redone again anyway. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ChrisC Posted November 18, 2018 Author Share Posted November 18, 2018 Opps forgot to say thank you Mike for the photos. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikecocker Posted November 18, 2018 Share Posted November 18, 2018 There should be no gap. I expect that if you take out the 2 front screws, you will be able to push the back up and then fit the 2 missing bolts. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ChrisC Posted November 18, 2018 Author Share Posted November 18, 2018 I am 100% sure I could do a better job, problem is the oil leak, which the company that fitted the dry sump has already had one attempt to stop, but it still continues. So it’s got to go back to them, but I will use your photos for how it should’ve been done. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SimonR300 Posted November 20, 2018 Share Posted November 20, 2018 Caterham do still sell this alternative, although I suspect the nylon wedge should offer more protection.https://caterhamparts.co.uk/oil-system/4344-dry-sump-guard-r3-4-500.html I replaced mine a few months back with like for like. The old one was very bashed and you can see the amount of protection it gave, or didn't. (Ex-R300 Championship race car.) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ChrisC Posted November 20, 2018 Author Share Posted November 20, 2018 This is my concern - I have one of these as well, and there is just no way it would fit my car. The sump is to low, covering the bolt holes in the bell housing, preventing the protection (either version) from being fitted properly. Given the wet sump did line up with the bell housing, and had all bolts fitted, I am assuming my bell housing is ok, therefore I suspect the dry sump fitting is the problem (just not sure how) and this is the reason for my oil leak also from the rear of the sump. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikecocker Posted November 20, 2018 Share Posted November 20, 2018 I've looked again at your photo at the orange arrow, and there is definitely a full hole showing in the bell housing, at least on this side. I know that the threaded portion is very near the top face of the plate, and that's why a shoulder bolt is used. The alternative protector also seems to have the threaded rod welded pretty flush with the top, so although you may have an oil leak, I'm not convinced the sump is in the wrong place. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ChrisC Posted November 20, 2018 Author Share Posted November 20, 2018 Thanks, come to think of it the bolts above are through the bell housing into the sump, so you are 100% right. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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