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Motor Bike alternators?


greg

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Barring the BMW they are (I believe) integrated into the crankcase and would need a housing of some sort. By the time that's been done you may well have done better to stay with an automotive type. I suspect that the output could be a limiting factor also.

 

Steve B

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Ones fitted to triumphs are like diddy car ones - rated at 20ah. I'll try and get a better picture. But I take you point that this might be allot of effort for little gain!

 

Greg, Q 86 NTM (Green 185BHP XF)

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I'm familiar with Bosch and Ducati Elettronica bike alternators. They are mounted on the end of the crank. If you have a crank pulley that only drives the alternator you should be able to adapt one. May involve modifying the crank to suit. You could get rid of the alternator, brackets and belt. You would have to run a small regulator rectifier box separately (about 300 grams, less for a bespoke one). The Ducati alternator weighs around 2 kilos. This is a rotor for the end of the crank and a stator that is attaced to the case. A smaller race version weighs only one kilo.

 

People who are paranoid about removing harmonic dampers should not do this. 😬

 

Got to go back to dreaming about Duratecs.

 

AMMO

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Normalbloke.

 

Oil at 100 degrees C can hardly have a cooling effect. The rotor is on the end of the crank. The stator is fixed to the casing. The stator and rotor don't touch. No lubrictaion needed.

 

Some Ducati alternators run in oil in some applications and in fresh air in others.

 

AMMO

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Anyone who has any experience of Ducati electrics wouldn't touch anything thats been within 200 miles of a Ducati factory. The Italians might make the best mechanical bits on two or four wheels but the electrics are (or were) something else. They make "Lucas - Prince of Darkness" stuff on British bikes look reliable.

 

But my experience of Italian (and British) bike electrics is from 20 years ago, could well have improved since then of course.....

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Not as bad as they used to be. The Ducati regulator / rectifiers go tits up on a regular basis. The stator and rotor really can't go wrong. There is an aftermarket regulator / rectifier which is smaller and lighter which I have been told is a lot more reliable. Wiring on Italian bikes has improved a lot over the years. Ducatis have a lot of AMP connectors. Weber Marelli fuel injection stuff on bikes is more or less bullet proof.

 

 

 

AMMO

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The obvious and simple route is to keep the light crank of the donor bike alternator, along with the light rods, pistons, block, gearbox and head *wink*

 

It looks like there's still a market for a neat foolproof electric reverse system though!

 

Anyway, back on topic, despite the company's reputation for reliability the Honda Regulator/rectifiers also seem strangely unreliable, a few of the BEC listers have mentioned this and a friend's blade experienced a failure. Perhaps the location in some car applications are not well chosen to conduct / convect heat away?

 

 

 

 

Mark

 

My Caterham Silver Jubilee No. 7 is here with Mavis, under 'Mark's Cars'.

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HI All,

 

The alternators I've seen are like mini car ones (fitted to recent Triumphs) and do not run in oil - they would appear to run in air - they have vent holes like any alternator. Issues with rectifier reliability etc make me nervous!

 

It would appear that this is allot of hassel to save 1kg. Must diet/run more - would be less hassel. 😬

 

Greg, Q 86 NTM (Green 185BHP XF)

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