Area Representative Nick Bassett Posted November 8, 2018 Area Representative Share Posted November 8, 2018 My year 2000 SLR runs the Caterham dry sump system with the Titan gold pump. Car is running well with good oil pressure, but I suspect the pump has never been refreshed by Titan which is recommended by all accounts.Thought it might be a good Winter project for me to remove and send to Titan for a refresh assuming it is fairly straight-forward – however have any forum members done this themselves and if so do you have an ‘Idiot’s Guide’ that you would share please? And I do mean ‘Idiot’s Guide’ – so any last detail you could provide won’t be wasted on me – that I can guarantee! Thanks in advance.Nick Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul McKenzie Posted November 8, 2018 Share Posted November 8, 2018 They'll charge you a fortune! If it aint broke..... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Area Representative Nick Bassett Posted November 8, 2018 Author Area Representative Share Posted November 8, 2018 Really Paul? I read somewhere that it was about £100 for a refresh by Titan?Given the age of the car, I'd rather do some preventative maintenance than wait for the pump to fail and the engine to seize... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Leadership Team SLR No.77 Posted November 8, 2018 Leadership Team Share Posted November 8, 2018 Good oil pressure at the gauge is not indicative of the condition of the scavenge pump, periodic starvation is though. Enough periodic starvation will lead to bearing damage and if not addressed can result in a knackered engine ... there's plenty of SLR owners that will confirm this.To remove it (from memory): Loosen the small scavenge pump pulley cap head screw on the front Remove the d/s belt by swinging the tensioner downwards (there's a location for a spanner to help with this) Remove the pulley completely Remove the four M6 bolts securing the pump into its cradle Lift the pump out of the cradle - it may need some gentle leverage, the rear bolts have sliding sleeves like an alternator and will maintain pressure on the pump even with the bolts removed.And refitting is the reverse of removal. Please add anything I've missed!Stu. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Englishmaninwales Posted November 8, 2018 Share Posted November 8, 2018 Yes, I agree, a relatively cheap service, compared to re-building the engine. I do this every 5 years and you could consider replacing the bearing in the tensioner too. I treat this as a service item every two years. It is a sealed bearing with high temperature grease, I’ve got the bearing number somewhere, just a few £ from a bearing factor. Remove the circlip, it is then a simple knock out and press in with bearing adhesive.Just to add to Stu’s list above, it will be obvious also to undo the oil pipe union and jubilee clips on the two oil scavenge pipes.Malcolm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oilyhands Posted November 8, 2018 Share Posted November 8, 2018 Err..Remove the four M8 socket headed cap screws securing the pump to its cradleRemove the feed and discharge hoses from the rear nd top of the pumpOily Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wrightpayne Posted November 8, 2018 Share Posted November 8, 2018 I have a pdf installation guide written by a club member of old - Steve Tourle IIRC send me a message with your email address and I ‘ll send it over. It contains the full parts listing too.Ian Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Area Representative Nick Bassett Posted November 8, 2018 Author Area Representative Share Posted November 8, 2018 Thanks all - sounds fairly straight-forward then! What could possibly go wrong?! I'm guessing the pump should be primed with oil before re-fitting? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Area Representative Nick Bassett Posted November 8, 2018 Author Area Representative Share Posted November 8, 2018 Thanks Ian - pm inbound... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Leadership Team SLR No.77 Posted November 8, 2018 Leadership Team Share Posted November 8, 2018 Spot on Dave, the 6mm I'm thinking of is the allen key that fits them! And of course there's an oil pipe, I did say I was going form memory ... think I need a cuppa :) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rj Posted November 8, 2018 Share Posted November 8, 2018 Ian,Can I have a copy too? blatchat at rj dot dk Regin Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul McKenzie Posted November 8, 2018 Share Posted November 8, 2018 £400 when I sent mine to Titan...but it had been through the Sahara Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eriedor Posted April 26, 2022 Share Posted April 26, 2022 @Englishmaninwales - Are you able to dig out that bearing number? I'm about to go through this process and would like to replace it if I can. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
samsul Posted August 27 Share Posted August 27 (edited) This is a helpful thread. My gold pump appears to be leaking oil from somewhere other than inlet and outlet ports. I am perplexed as to how this is possible and whether it is fixable without stripping and rebuilding? Is Titan still around and doing rebuild work? Any contact details please? Sam Edited August 27 by samsul Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Leadership Team SLR No.77 Posted August 27 Leadership Team Share Posted August 27 Sounds similar to mine Sam, it leaks from the shaft seal behind the pulley. Mine still leaks even since a rebuild at Titan, I’m tempted to investigate what seal is used and have a go at sealing it myself. Stu. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
samsul Posted August 27 Share Posted August 27 15 minutes ago, SLR No.77 said: Sounds similar to mine Sam, it leaks from the shaft seal behind the pulley. Mine still leaks even since a rebuild at Titan, I’m tempted to investigate what seal is used and have a go at sealing it myself. Stu. Thanks Stu. How did you get in touch with Titan - I can't find anything online? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Leadership Team SLR No.77 Posted August 27 Leadership Team Share Posted August 27 Pretty sure it was via email but I’ll need to find the address … 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Englishmaninwales Posted August 27 Share Posted August 27 (edited) Titan Motorsport contact is 01480 474402 Address is Unit 3 Harley Ind Park, Paxton Hill,St Neots, Cambs. PE19 6TA. They can refurbish the gold pump, provided the gears are not worn/damaged. I had my spare pump overhauled in 2021 for £151 including VAT and carriage. Malcolm Edited August 27 by Englishmaninwales 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
samsul Posted August 28 Share Posted August 28 (edited) Titan have the seals available but not much hardware. Fortunately, I think my issue is seals. Thanks for such quick replies - hopefully back up and running this weekend. Quick question, do I need to bleed the oil pump after opening the casing and replacing seals? If so, how? Assume not necessary, as any air would be blown out of the system and vented out of the catch can... Sam Edited August 28 by samsul Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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