R300 K SERIES Spark Plug Lead removal and replacement

[brianjhall31]

Went to change the Spark Plugs on my 2003 R300 K Series and found the leads were impossible to remove from their position in the cylinder head, felt like a dentist pulling teeth.   Is this normal?  Eventually after much pulling and twisting 3 came out but on the 4th I ended up breaking the plastic cap.  Now I need a replacement set.  Where is the best source for these currently?  

[Jonathan Kay]

On my 1800 K they are very stiff and there's nowhere to get a good grip. I recently asked an expert if there is a trick: there isn't.

Can you add a photo to show us what yours look like?

Where is the best source for these currently?  

I'd start with Redline and Caterham Parts.

Jonathan

[SM25T]

Redline Components 01883 346515

[ECR]

Cant envisage the K series setup (although I have an Elise at home) but the 2.0L VX plug leads can be difficult to remove as well. I pass some thin rope with a loop at each end under a plug lead and then move the rope along the lead till it reaches the plug cap. I then pull at a slight angle on the two loops, sometimes twisting as well. This usually shifts them. Could this work on a K?

[Jonathan Kay]

This is what mine look like:

That trick with the rope might work, but with a fair bit of anxiety about pulling off axis.

A transverse hole through the moulded top would make it much easier to get a grip.

Jonathan

 

[John Vine]

In my K days, I used to clamp the top moulding in pipe grips, and then levered over a piece of wood placed on the finned part of the cam cover.

JV

[brianjhall31]

Great advice guys!  Seems like it is a well known issue.  Chris at Redline is going to provide me with the replacement leads.  Bottom line is why do they seize into the head when they are only there to provide the connection onto the spark plug.  Is there something to coat the rubber with to stop the adhesion (silicon grease?)  The way they isolate the plugs from the atmosphere looks more suitable for a marine engine!   

[SM25T]

Silicone grease would do fine

[Alastair B]

When my car was DVA a few years ago on rebuild now he made a point of linishing the spark plug electrical connectors, not sure if this was to remove any oxidised layer or take down the size slightly so the connector plugs grip was not so high, thought it was for the latter.

[anthonym]

KEasy: I use the screwdriver handle with Allen key insert (used to remove the cover) to lever the thing off, comes off dead easy however tight it is, with a gentle lever lift motion . ... forget that, too hard to describe

 

[SLR No.77]

As per Anthony, I make do with whatever tool I have available and simply lever them out, if you don’t get a good purchase under the top they can easily break though. 

In heavy rain it’s possible to get a fair amount of water down the spark plug recesses, the caps are designed to reduce any issues caused by damp.

Stu.

[Paul Richards]

I too lever off with screwdriver or similar. 

[Geoff Brown]

It is as has been mentioned this is a very common problem.

Happened to me with my 2001 1.6K. Home built. Tried to remove the plug leads for first service & first time since the build, two failed on me. What a bu**ers muddle it was extracting the remnants.

Learnt after that & used copious amounts of Electro Lube & removed any deposits on the push in connector.

Duratecs or Zetecs without the head cover also suffer with the same problem...........

[oilyhands]

Two large blade screwdrivers , one either side underneath the top of the cap and some even and judicious levering will usually get them off, it is worth gently linishing the ferrules to make it easier to connect and disconnect.

 

Oily