Wire and Battery wire - remarkably different choices, a whole hidden world.

[anthonym]

Thick wire is stranded to make it flexible, sizes 24 guage to 8 guage , made in either PVC or "Crosslinked", materials, the difference being crosslinked can withstand much more heat, which has my attention.

PVC types are

GPT - general circuits rated to 80 deg C, standard thickness wall.

TWP - lead free, rated to 105 deg C, thin walled 

Crosslinked types are

GXL rated to 125 deg c, thin wall, the most common type, works with most connectors

SXL rated to 125 deg c, standard wall thickness, 

TXL rated to 125 deg c, the extra thin wall version, Light and saves weight (adds lightness)

Battery cables start at about 1:40 sizes from 6 awg to 4/0 awg 

SGT ... PVC insulation

SGX ...Cross linked insulation higher temp ratings 

STX ... Cross linked insulation higher temp ratings - this one has the thinnest wall.

I guess these are all proprietary product names, but I also guess the technology is industry wide, so I might be asking questions next time I buy "some wire".

Anthony

High temperature sleeving is next.

[OliverSedlacek]

There seems to be  a lot of fluff that you can ignore if you keep your eye on the essentials. All copper wire has pretty much the same resistance per meter for a given cross sectional area. That means you need to select your wire CSA either to limit the voltage drop or to limit the temperature rise. In a loom a lot of wires aren't chosen to be the smallest that will do the job, just like a lot of bolts are also standard threads rather than sized down to the minimum required.

Insulation needs to have an appropriate temperature rating and good mechanical strength (voltage rating is rarely an issue). That's where the cross linked insulation really scores. If you really optimise a loom you can save quite a bit of weight, but it takes proper design. It's not that hard if you know what current each wire has to carry, and that can be quite hard.
 

[anthonym]

it's the flexibility, heat resistance and lightness that interest me; about to rewire the engine bay (with a standard loom.)

[Jonathan Kay]

What Oliver says. + Colour.

Cable intended for welders seems to be fashionable.

NB: It isn't easy to make good terminations to thick cable without at least one of experience and the appropriate tool. If you're just replacing one that's a good reason to buy ready-made.

Jonathan

PS:

All copper wire has pretty much the same resistance per meter for a given cross sectional area.

Even in both directions to loudspeakers? ;-)

[rj]

Even in both directions to loudspeakers? ;-)

Yes.

What has made me laugh is when someone tries to sell high end power cables for stereos.

There's a lot of black magic when it comes to HiFi - but I once went to England to sort an issue with an R300 where it turned out that the wires had been replaced with stiff snake-oil type HiFi cables to make the engine run better. It didn't run, but it turned out to be a crosswired barometic sensor that shorted the +5V for the TPS.

[TJG]

 

Even in both directions to loudspeakers? ;-)

Jonathan  

[Molecular--Bob]

Hi Anthony, I have used an ebay seller in the past who will make up anything you want in terms of cable type and terminations and his stuff is decent, He will make to any length and current capacity you require. I used him to make up an accessory supply similar to the one in this link https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/12-Way-Blade-Fuse-box-negative-bus-bar-with-70amp-Ready-Made-Leads-1mtr/252028182529?hash=item3aae0ce001:g:bhgAAOSwKfVXFza2 Just with 6 outlets. Used him for my FIA cutout cables as well.

[anthonym]

thanks - it's amazing the variety of choices once one goes down this rabbit hole.