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Rear pad rattle in Caterham branded rear calipers


ChrisC

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Hi All

My 2015 360R had a rear calliper replaced under warranty due to leaks.  The kit was originally supplied with reconditioned rear calipers but the replacement item was a new Caterham branded item. Problem is since it’s replacement my outside pad rattles.   I have so far tried new pads (originals had done just over 2000 miles) and new anti rattle springs with no effect. 

I can see on the bottom of the anti rattle sprint the witness marks where the inside pads spring touches the anti rattle sprint, but no marks from the outside pad.  

It’s as if the anti rattle sprint is to short or the lug on the calliper that locates the anti rattle sprint has been cast to far back pulling the anti rattle spring off the outside pad.  I can pull the anti rattle spring into the correct position to hold both pads but it won’t stay at that location.

Any suggestions, apart from drive faster or wear ear plugs would be helpful?   I do wear ear plug and I can hear it over them, and I have to drive at least 20 min (often more) to get to a decent road where it doesn’t matter any more.

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First question is are the rear brake lines solid or flexible onto the calipers?

if they are solid then the problem maybe that the calliper is now sitting further over due to the brake line being set up for the older calliper size, and therefore the outer pad can float in the space. Just my thoughts.

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Daft question, but when I look a sliding calipers in a number of installations there is inconsistency car to car with where the the outer lug on the anti rattle spring is fitted.  On your car are both lugs on top of the caliper body, or is the outer lug sitting into the caliper recess?

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It’s still factory spec 360R so the line are sold.  The anti rattle springs are fitted with the outer lugs sitting on the caliper body.   I did a fair bit of web research on that, after finding the same photos.  I found a ford workshop manual online which showed it that way, but it was only a line diagram so assume that’s ok.

Any clue on what is acceptable float on the caliper and how I can measure it?   One thing crossed my mind, maybe the new caliper isn’t self adjusting properly.

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No idea on caliper float spec. But a couple of off the wall thoughts..... What about trying a feeler gauge to measure the gap between the each of pads and disc on both sides of the vehicle to see if there are any clues? I think you have changed only 1 caliper. Also if you have wire springs on your pads at the top, is it worth bending these a little on your noisey pads a little to get more contact force with the anti rattle clips. 

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Another thought.  Could the vertical clearance on the caliper outer pad carrier be out of spec?    i.e. The lower mounting faces on the caliper are not seating the outer pad high enough to create necessary interference with the anti rattle clip.

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  • 4 weeks later...

I think its the auto adjuster not working on the off side.   I adjusted my handbrake to three clicks as the maximum I could pull, two weeks ago, I have done a couple of hundred miles, now I can pull five clicks.

I suspect this is the cause of the pad being loose.  Going to check tonight if the pad closet to the piston is also loose.      

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Wind the piston clockwise back until retracted. Handbrake adjuster slack. Refit pads and caliper top. Press brake pedal hard a few times to actuate self adjuster. Then adjust handbrake cable. Check front cable on bottom of handbrake lever is seated in pulley ok.

 

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Yep - that's how the pads where fitted, and the replacement caliper in the first place.   But each time after 100 miles or so, the handbrake slackens off and the pad rattle. 

Since its a replacement part supplied in January by CC, I think its time for a phone call. 

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