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Bleeding Clutch


alcal

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I see from my service book that I should change the clutch fluid in my Sigma 140 every two years.

Any tips for doing this ?   Access to the bleed nipple looks bleeding tight from above and below.

Is it me or the search facility on this site that's completely useless ?

 

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It is just the same as bleeding the brakes.

If you can not get a spanner on the nipple to loosen then use a socket on an extension to 'crack' it. Then a spanner for the open/close process. If still in trouble feed the tube down the centre of the socket and use the socket with your fingers to open/close during bleeding then tighten with the extension when done.

 

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Thanks Jonathon. There was some useful stuff there but why couldn't I access it from this site?

Looking again at the bleed nipple, it has a plastic open/close key which I can just about reach from above. As long as this hasn't seized I should be able to manage.

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That's clever aerobod. Mine doesn't have a conventional nipple though - it's a black plastic device with a little open/close lever.

Blue C7 - I think you are on to something. I had been cautioned not to rely on a moisture content meter for brake fluid as it doesn't accurately measure boiling point and this is safety critical. Ferodo sell a device to measure boiling point but I think it costs about £800. I can't see that the clutch fluid will boil however so I think I'll invest in a new gadget.

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