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rivnuts


Brightonuk

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Replacing my Carbon cycle wings which had a combination of m5 nuts and washers and rivnuts

The rivnut option looks the cleanliest way to go all round but before I go out and buy the gun

https://www.amazon.com/Astro-Pneumatic-Tool-ADN14-Adapter/dp/B01JBO58FM/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1533167242&sr=8-4&keywords=pneumatic+rivet+nut+tool

or go cheap

https://www.harborfreight.com/45-piece-threaded-insert-riveter-kit-1210.html

Should I be using aluminum or Stainless rivnuts for carbon wings I would assume aluminum as there is no stress on the wings but as always look to the knowledgebase for advice.

Thanks  

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I just went through removing and replacing the wings on my 1988. From another thread and from an airline mechanic friend I learned to do the following:

1- Put a drop of heavy duty loctite on it when you insert the rivnut so it becomes glued in as well as cold welded. Cleanliness is king for a process like this.

2- I chose a wrench operated tool that has a left hand thread nut so with a wrench and a ratchet (choke up on it so as not to over torque it -American baseball term). I like this tool because I have a good feel for it as the rivnut compresses. You have to choose when to stop so you can ruin it if you are ham handed. The tool is less expensive and won't break or fail, but you need one for each size.

3- I then run a tap through it in case any threads got distorted a little and lube it with anti-sieze. They work great after this process.

I also was able to put on a drop of loctite on loose rivnuts that had spun and retighten them. Seem great so far, but time will tell.

FINALLY, MY OWN QUESTION - I need a package of 50 or 100 4mm flush mount rivnuts. I need them to make my scuttle removable for when I redo the wiring harness. The problem is these are called "Eurostyle" in the US and I can't find a source for less that 2 or 3 thousand as a minimum order. The UK sources I have found won't sell to the US. Can anyone help me on this?

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  • Leadership Team

You don't need flush mount ... use normal rivnuts but insert them into an aluminium strip that can then be bonded to the rear edge of the bulkhead panel with some silicon. The bulkhead panel retains its' 4mm holes and the bolts are passed through from the front but anchor into the new aluminium strip. I used an old bulkhead panel and trimmed 15mm off the edge to make the strip but have easily fashioned similar using alumium sheet on other cars. There's 24 holes, do 22 using this method but do the end/bottom 2 with a simple nut and bolt, the extra strip can restrict getting the scuttle back into place if it's extended to the ends.

Stu.

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  • Support Team

You don't need to use 24 RivNuts for the removable scuttle - I only use about 8 strategically placed ones! I like Stu's idea and wish I'd thought of that when I did mine instead of drilling the holes bigger.

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Here is a shot of the rear tub where the original wing was torn out (thank you for the nylon bolt idea for the reinstall)

RearWingMountinghole.thumb.jpg.faaee47764f4c8951bebddc1925ec494.jpg

Stu not sure I understand you idea but I was going to use these

 

RearWingNewDisc.thumb.jpg.0f5f8861dafba8f0974226063f2f144c.jpg

They are aluminum knock outs from electrical gang boxes and glue them using loctite E-120hp aircraft adhesive over the damaged holes then re-drill using bcrains idea

 

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I recently had a similar problem with the two lower front mounting points with the existing 5mm rivnuts having corroded out. I found that the resultant hole was the right size for 6mm rivnut insert so decided to go that way.

As it had happened once then I guess in a few years there is a chance I would have to move up to 7mm etc. So took the plunge and removed the inner panel so I could get to the rear of the rivnut. I set the 6mm rivnut then reinforced the setting with a thickened epoxy resin mix so this takes some of the load and stops water getting into the junction between the rivnut and the panel. Hopefully it will limit / delay any future corrosion of the panel. Nylon 6mm bolts are now use.

Drilling out the rivets to get inner panel off seemed like over kill but in reality it probably only took 40 minutes and the same to refix the panel. 

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