Manifold finish?

[Trevor Phillips]

About to order a manifold for a high-revving race BDA engine [i.e. loads of heat!].

 

Should I go camcoat or stainless?

 

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[Bob Corb]

Depends what your aim is?

 

If you want to keep the engine bay cool then camcoat is one option, others include exhaust wrap (cheaper but tricky to get a neat finish and can be nasty stuff to handle) or Zircotec Thermohold coating (which is more expensive but better insulating/more durable).

 

Stainless will look pretty with all the changes in colour (although they do tend to go black near the cyl head) but will heat the engine bay up the most. If your carbs breathe from outside the bonnet this wont be as much of an issue although it will still be a small factor as you want to keep the carb bodies cool to prevent unnecessary upheat going into the inlet airflow.

 

As you are spending money on a nice engine installation I'd go for a coating of some sort. I got my headers coated from the head flange to the side skin so you can still see golden pipes on the outside where heat is irelevant but underhood the pipes are really tidy, smooth and well insulated.

 

BC

[Trevor Phillips]

Bob

 

Not come across the Zircotec Thermohold coating. I've found their website and will contact them today.

Thanks

 

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[John Howe]

Trevor, can you let me know the results of your research i.e. cost/time etc

 

JH

Deliveries by Saffron, the yellow 222bhp Sausage delivery machine

[Trevor Phillips]

John,

 

Not keen on the finish - off white.

Spoke with Peter Carter at CamCoat and he recommends the satin black finish as being the only suitable one for the temperatures. All the prices are on his website here

 

Liked the joke 😬

 

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Edited by - Trevor on 5 Mar 2003 12:06:19

[edmandsd]

Mine's Camcoated in/out in Satin black and I'd strongly recommend the process for a new/nearly new manifold and system Trevor. I see that Steve Broughton's Westfield has had the same process aswell.

 

Home of BDR700

[robmar]

I had my powerspeed exhaust camcoated inside and out black(when new) it certainly cools down very quickly, touchable in 10 minutes or so, not sure where all the disspated heat goes

 

it also looks the dogs nadgers as it goes well with CF and metalic orange

 

also easier to clean apparently, although I have not tried that yet

 

rob

[don_g]

I'm just about ready to install a new, all steel, BDA into H15BDR (keeping the BDR as a spare) and would really appreciate any ideas on who to contact for equal length primaries and collector (into a Raceco Ti can).

 

The car is for road and track and I'd like it to look pretty (so stainless)! Goode seems top of the list, excellent but expensive - I'd really appreciate any suggestions.

 

Your ideas on primary lengths and dimensions would also be appreciated - Geoff Richardson has suggested 32" x 1 7/8" primaries into 2 1/4 tailpipe.

[Trevor Phillips]

Skypilot

 

It depends on your engine spec and whether it is road or race. I've booked in to Specialised Exhausts at Mitcham who have done many BDA's in the past. My system is for racing and will be 2" diameter 27" long [as recommended by HT Racing] for the 3 stud patter. Also going 4-1 into a Raceco 7" Titanium box.

 

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[Peter Griffiths]

Just had our new 4:1 system completely CamCoated. Peter Carter and his team did a great job. The speed with which the exhaust area cools on engine shut down is remarkable. Not cheap, but the finish and service - excellent

 

Peter 7 Rosina

C7 PRG

 

XFlow + Clams

The 24 carat Solution

[Jason Plato]

This may be a daft question , but both Peter and Rob commented that the exhaust cools down realy quickly on shut down .

 

Does this therefore mean that the exhaust gets hot - ie untouchable when running ?? , if so then the objective of reducing underbonnet temperature is not being met if the exhaust gives off heat when running ??

 

I was considering camcoat type option but went for cooltec wrap instead - mainly due to the fact that the exhaust is not new and I didnt want to be off the road for any further time ( just completed 3 month engine build ) .

 

My cooltec wrap is very efficient and I can touch the manifold when the engine is hot running ( I checked it with an infrared thermometer first )

 

Dave

 

 

[robmar]

Dave - it does get hot when running, no idea if as hot as non -coated one

 

I haven't dared touch it

 

from my understanding and I could be wrong, is that the heat stays within the exhaust gas rather than being transfered to the metal due to the coating, hence why when turned off it cools quicker, so in theory the metal should be cooler

 

slightly off-toic... I was chatting with the camcoat chaps at the As show, and wondering if a camcoated starter motor would help reduce the K 'click' sydrome, they reckoned they could do one for about 30 quid, thoughts 🤔

 

they have a limited web site at here

 

rob

[Jason Plato]

Thanks Rob - so it does get hot when running and hence the manifold *must* be heating up the engine bay ( and hence the inlet charge - if you run with a filter inside the bonnet ).

 

I think I will stick with my cooltec wrap .........

 

Dave

[Jason Plato]

Rob ,

the heat that cooks a starter and the alternator is radiated from your manifold . Hence the best way to protect these parts is to stop this radiation .

I imagine coating the starter motor would possibly retain the heat it generates , although given the fact that the coated manifold is still radiating heat when already coated I think the best option is wrap the manifold - or at minimum manifold branch 3 & 4 ?

 

dave