Residual stiffness.....

[blueyedbiker]

...as it were.

A recent IVA fail point was "residual stiffness" in the steering, ie it wouldn't self centre at 10mph.  I've traced it to the track rod ends which are both rock solid (and new) so the questions are; are they all like that from new, can they be loosened up, or do I need replacements?  I've rigged up a handle on the steering wheel boss so I can sit in the thing and quickly take it lock to lock to try and ease them off without success.

Should they need to be removed what's the recommended tool for breaking the taper, Ed China's hammer trick is difficult to apply due the disc proximity.

Ta.

[Wrightpayne]

Could you adjust the castor (big spacer washers on lower front wishbones) to make it self centre more for the IVA and switch back once passed?

Ian

[Jim 123]

Not something I've found with new TRE's before.  Removal choices ... Ball joint spliiter / lever and fulcrum under the TRE's plus hammer on the lever end / if the chassis is on stands you can also try positioning a jack under the TRE's and gently raising it to ease the taper free.

Assume your tyre pressures are not too low, and ithe ssue is not the road wheels centering but the steering wheel is not centered.

[Jim 123]

FYI I've been out in my Seven this afternoon and checked if the steering will self centre at 10 mph and it will not.  Around 15 mph or above is when it centres up.  It would be helpful if a few other owners could check their cars out as added comparison.

My car passed the IVA, and with almost 8K miles on the clock things should be a bit more free than when the IVA was carried out..  It might be an idea to look at Ian's temporary suggestion.  Banging up the tyre pressures should also help for this particular test point.

[PeterM]

I had a problem with wheel centering on my 160. CC played with it at post build check. They checked castor angle/washers as per build manual and then tried slackening off the Allan screw on the steering rack to reduce stiffness in the mesh but without adding back lash in the steering. This got a little bit of action but its nothing like what you get in a tin top, even with the narrow tyres of a 160. I was concerned that it might fail at IVA but didn't, and I have passed an MOT since so have stopped worrying about it as the car runs a straight as a die in normal driving with the lightest of touch on the wheel. 

 

 

[Tom_Arundel]

Take the rubber boots of the rack,  move it side to side, grease it and work it in. refit boots with tywraps

[blueyedbiker]

I've answered my own question in that yes, you can free them off.  Had to clamp them in the vice and put a tube over the taper to get them moving so now I've given them about 20,000 miles by hand and they're reasonably free.

LF's esteemed editor came up with the taper splitter.

Castor angles already at max and good tip re tyre pressures, ta.

[SM25T]

You'll get a fail for excessive free play now ... and have to replace them !! They feel impossibly tight when held in the hand ... but once on the car they do what they are supposed to do ... in my experience.

[Jim 123]

Just to mention for your retest regarding: "it wouldn't self centre at 10mph".

The IVA Test criteria is for "a degree of self centering" i.e. not fully self centering.  And this has to be "when the vehicle is driven above 10 mph."  

Best of luck.

[blueyedbiker]

Make that you can't free them off.  I went back to them the morning after and they were tighter than ever, new ones arrived from CCC this morning and they're fine, steering almost one finger now.

Ta for all the hints and tips, retest booked for the 23rd.