Vauxhall C20XE engine removal

[Kpcseven]

It’s engine out time to figure out a clutch problem (see my Clutch Release Arm ithread). To get at the clutch, which is easier, engine out by itself or engine/transmission out together?  How about going back in?s

[ECR]

I always disconnect the gearbox from the engine (at the bellhousing joint naturally ...). Its not nice (or necessary) to have a large lump of metal swaying over the car. Separating the engine from the bellhousing can sometimes be difficult. The trick here is to depress the clutch pedal (once all bolts have been removed). this pushes the engine off the box. As its your first time, I'd take a reference measurement from the chassis down to the gearbox before you remove it. This makes lining up the input shaft easier when you re-install. The engine needs to come forward and then be tilted for removal. I made up a wire rope strap which runs over a small pulley which is suspended from the engine crane to lift and tilt the engine. I remove the rad with its pipes to make access easier (particularly to the upper starter motor bolt - access from the front with a long extension bar). The gearbox will need supporting when you pull the engine ..... If you have a removable diagonal in the engine compartment it makes removing the engine easier but it is ok without one. Take photos for reassembly. Keep all removed fasteners in a tray so you don't miss-place them

When replacing the engine (and after assuring myself that the splines on the clutch and the input shaft are aligned). I gently lever the engine backwards with a block of wood on the front pulley and a lever on the lower chassis cruciform. Once the two parts mate, I pull them together with the bellhousing bolts, equal turns on each side ...

You will need a clutch plate centralising tool for reassembly (a temporary one can be made by winding tape round a bar)

[johnnyseven]

Yes like ECR- split engine - from gearbox- tried not splitting once- never again! ( you do have a removable diagonal ?)

[Tazio]

I bow to Rogers experience...but so far I've had mine in and out 5 times and it came out with gearbox attached..

[Paul Deslandes]

I've done it both ways but favour engine only.  It's very important to ensure that the clutch driven plate is exactly lined up with the spigot bearing, otherwise it can be very difficult to get it back in. An old gearbox input shaft is ideal but, with care, you can eyeball it. Use an easily adjustable jack under the gearbox to adjust the tilt angle when removing and reinstalling.

Best of luck

Paul

[ECR]

I cant understand why folks want to remove a gearbox from the car that is perfectly ok

By just removing the engine, there is one less bolt to undo, no risk of oil from the tail of the gearbox decorating the garage floor, no need to relocate the propshaft in the tail of the box on refitting and less weight hanging swaying over your bodywork,. Granted, undoing the bellhousing bolts is slightly more difficult with the engine in the car but not greatly so and you do have to relocate the input shaft into the clutch plate which can sometimes be inexplicaly fiddly but overall .......

[Tazio]

Roger mine were the initial tryfits into a K series Race chassis, and finding it wouldn't go in until I had 'dressed' the drivers peddle box, then once it was in finding the engine would only turn over by about 45 degrees as the clutch cover was fouling the internal webs of the bellhousing....much fun was had.  The one time I did take it out without the box, I couldn't get it aligned going back in...lol.

Agree not much fun with the beast hanging from the hoist...

[Paul McKenzie]

I've always taken the engine and 'box out as a single unit with both a conventional bellhousing and an integral ds bellhousing.  Having it dangling over the car is great fun as long as you have a reliable crane and straps, and it's much easier to work on it out of the car and on the bench.