clutch release arm

[ECR]

Those are old photos John. I currently run a minuscule 5.5"twin plate super clutch with their supplied bearing. As it's fitted I don't have access to numbers but I have PTT RM001 China in my records

[Kpcseven]

Keep in mind that I am realy not a mechanic and this is all uncharted water for me so I apologize if I'm being repetitive or asking ridiculous questions.  I've gone through the large file of receipts provided by the original owner/builder and see that a lightweight steel flywheel from QED was fit as well as a clutch cover from QED.  I believe that the clutch itself is the original supplied in 1993, but their is some clutch paperwork from AP.   There is a receipt for a CRB from Caterham in 2004.  I'm thinking that I'll replace the clutch and CRB while all is apart, although I suspect that there probably won't be too much wear on the clutch - only about 9Kmiles.  Recommendations on source; QED for clutch and an alloy CRB or Caterham?  I'm in the states.    

Being LHD the kit was supplied with a hydraulic clutch but the owner had the parts swapped out by the dealer for a cable clutch.  The cable is just long and runs around in front of the engine but doesn't seem problematic.  Still not quite clear on the reason for a hydraulic clutch being needed.  If anything, there is more room because the steering column is on the left and the clutch arm is on the right.  

Thanks again for all of the help! 

[John Vine]

OK.  Thanks, Roger.

JV

[Kpcseven]

So, I fussed with things further. Definitely not overextension as no position of the clutch pedal allows normal reverse except with the clutch arm fully hitting the bell housing. Took things off in preparation for pulling the engine and a real mechanic friend took a peek into the bellhousing and said the clutch arm looks like if is probably bent. 

Plan now is to order parts and then do the engine pull when I can wrestle up my friend’s help and engine hoist

my plan is to order a new clutch, CRB and clutch arm from QED. If the rear main seal isn’t leaking I’m going to leave it alone. Any other thoughts on what else you would replace if the engine is out?  The clutch btw is still the original with probably around 10k miles on it so I expect it to be fine but I ‘d rather not have to think about it again for some time to come. 

 

[ECR]

If this is a clutch arm of the style shown in my pics on your other thread then it is a standard Ford part and I have never seen or even heard of one of these bending (with respect to your mechanic friend). If it is non standard then that is possible of course. I seem to recall that there is a version of the clutch arm that is cranked but looks very similar to the non cranked version, maybe that's the problem. I don't currently have access to my parts storage so I could be wrong here .....

[John Vine]

my plan is to order a new clutch, CRB and clutch arm...

Personally, I'd wait until the engine is out and you've diagnosed the problem.  Otherwise, you could be ordering unnecessary parts.

JV

[Kpcseven]

That would make sense, but there are some events here in Pittsburgh in July that I would like to have the car for so and I'm looking at the clutch and CRB as being wear items.  The arm may very well be OK but it isn't too expensive.  Good weather and Caterham driving season here is short so the sooner I get to enjoy this new toy the better.  Thank you all again for your advice and help.

 

[Kpcseven]

Finally had the time to pull the engine. Turned out that the problem was that the release bearing carrier was not the correct height. My friend suggested that I order this alloy one from Burtonpower which is taller; it was almost an inch taller than what was in there, and when fit it solved the problem. The clutch arm is now in the center of the hole in the bellhousing. The clutch wasn’t fully releasing before and hence the problem getting into reverse. Here’s the link to the Burton part, http://www.burtonpower.com/carrier-release-bearing-ex-long-alloy-mp315.html. 

Curious, have you all fit  clutch pedal stops for fully released and fully depressed?  I had previously fit one for fully depressed, and now I don’t like that you can go under the clutch pedal with your foot and move the pedal way up - it would seem possible that the excess slack in the cable could cause the fork end of the cable to come loose. 

Thanks for all of the help and suggestions. 

[John Vine]

Very pleased to hear you've managed to sort it.  That Burton CRB carrier looks identical to the one in ECR's photos (post #22).

On my old K, I had a clutch pedal stop to limit cable strain at full disengagement.  I had no equivalent stop to prevent the pedal being lifted up.  So, yes, if lifted too far, there's a risk that the cable inner could detach itself from the clutch fork.  One of the advantages (over and above the pre-load benefits) of my spring modification is to make the pedal more difficult to lift up from underneath.

JV