Molecular--Bob Posted May 28, 2018 Share Posted May 28, 2018 Fitting a small Denso alternator to my Duratec and need some wiring advice.It has the two pin plug, one for warning lamp and one for ignition switched live. I am re-using the brown/yellow for the lamp connection, but I need to add a switched live. Just wondering how much current the switched live is likely to draw? If it is minimal I could tap into the live that goes to the fan switch as it is nice and close. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Jonathan Kay Posted May 28, 2018 Member Share Posted May 28, 2018 Which model?Jonathan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Molecular--Bob Posted May 28, 2018 Author Share Posted May 28, 2018 It's the Kubota 40A one which comes with a terminal socket that Brise would call a type 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
anthonym Posted October 4, 2018 Share Posted October 4, 2018 did you use the fan switched feed? I have the same problem, looking for a switched live in the engine bay, one that is accessible. Looking at the wiring diagram I am wondering about this possibility; for a Brise just fitted. Finding a switched 12v in the engine bay isn't as easy as it sounds. Tim Brise suggests the coil, but that's buried under the throttle bodies, and anyway I don't really want to cut in to that circuit - there's no useful second spade terminal like coils in the days of yore.Anthony Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
7 wonders of the world Posted October 4, 2018 Share Posted October 4, 2018 This might help you:https://www.brise.co.uk/images/D/image-02.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
anthonym Posted October 4, 2018 Share Posted October 4, 2018 no it doesn't, but thanks for the effort. In terms of that diagram I am looking for somewhere to terminate the IG(nition) wire. Somewhere that is easy for the time being. In Caterham circuit diagram terms I am looking for a G(reen) (ignition switched, fused) in the engine bay. Though I suppose un-fused might do as I can inline fuse it, although the original via the warning light is not fused now I think about it. So a W(hite) (Ignition unfused power) would also do. I need to explore a bit further for that - thanks for the inspiration ! Anthony Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Molecular--Bob Posted October 4, 2018 Author Share Posted October 4, 2018 I have a relay on the fan to reduce arcing in the fan switch, so picked up the live feed there with a piggyback spade connector. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
anthonym Posted October 5, 2018 Share Posted October 5, 2018 thanks for responding :-)I've taken a feed through the bulkhead from an unused Green (which means ignition switched/fused) spade terminal and the alternator now works fine.AnthonyK series R500, fitting a Brise Alternator to replace original. PREVIOUSLY I wrote this: (which is now redundant but shows the journey in case someone else is on the same path.)we just played with that (I have a relay too), but must be wired differently. DELETE (I finally I think having tested it found one to the lamda sensor from the MFRU. It comes via a relay in the MFRU, and ig on/starting/running/increased revs seems to be a continuous 12v supply from ignition "on".) My engine compartment has two green (fused) but unused wires to the front of the compartment, both well placed to have once been for use with a rad temp switch, but while I have the switch in place, it is not used. I have also found the White (unfused to coil) to the engine Grey plug (on the main loom side) which outputs to another colour pair - I haven't followed up this one because I don't want to cut in to the coil feed.I am surprised how hard it is to find this feed.Anyone reading this in future I was told NOT to use the 12v switched feed to the fuel pump because it is managed by the ECU.edit: and likewise the lamda sensor because it's a pre-heater supply that may be altered or switched off by the ECU.I remain perplexed why we (meaning the mechanic) could not find a switched feed to the Fan relay.. ah.. it must be switched by the temp sensor whether directly or more likely by the ECU because that manages the fan over run on ignition off when hot. So there must be a 12v feed to that sensor somewhere, but I don't need to go down that rabbit hole - and we did test for this; reckon it's ECU related so like Europa, do not go here. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Molecular--Bob Posted October 5, 2018 Author Share Posted October 5, 2018 I used the +ve feed for the fan switch as the feed for the relay live and used this as my switched +ve for the alternator, I use the fan switch as an earth when closed to trigger the relay. My loom is crossflow though so yours may not be the same. One of your relay terminals will be the live feed for the fan even if it is controlled by the ecu, find it and tap into this?Check to see if one of your unconnected wires is live, solves the problem if it is. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
anthonym Posted October 5, 2018 Share Posted October 5, 2018 I tried that and gave up, as you say, different wiring, which is to say it's different even than I suspect it's supposed to be, so we have Green wires that are unused and no volts. Anyway, thanks again for having a crack at this with me. p.s. I've rewritten my above post. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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