Toad-Sterling immobiliser fails when car hot

[samlofty]

Have looked at the various immobiliser threads but can't spot this one so any pointers appreciated.

After a long run on a hot day switched the engine off. 20 mins later went to start the engine but the fob failed to disarm the immobiliser. Early morning, cold engine, fob works perfectly and engine starts. Is the issue with the fob (doubt it as the engine did start in the morning) or, more likely, should I be looking at the the immobiliser unit? Do the immobiliser units fail?

[Jonathan Kay]

20 mins later went to start the engine but the fob failed to disarm the immobiliser.

Did the flashing light respond at all when you tried to disarm?

...

How did you eventually get it to disarm?

What's the battery voltage at rest, minimum during cranking and at 3,000 rpm?

Jonathan

 

 

 

[Tom_Arundel]

I had a similar sort of problem when the car was new, it was caused by the immobiliser ariel being too tight around the steering lock/ignition key housing and it was shorting against it. I freed it off a bit and insulated it with tape .... no problems since.

 

[Jonathan Kay]

Was that like this?

Jonathan

[samlofty]

When attempting to start the engine when hot, no flashing light on trying to disarm.

Did nothing at all overnight but this morning when cold, normal and as expected flashing light response from immobiliser and engine started as normal.

Banner battery voltages are:

At rest 13.57

Cranking >10

3,000 revs 14.06

So look to be within normal parameters

 

 

.

 

 

 

[Tom_Arundel]

Yes Jonathan, it was a fairly common problem at the time (10 years ago)

[Jonathan Kay]

Thanks

Jonathan

[samlofty]

Grateful if someone can pinpoint (pic?) the location of the toad sterling immobiliser box on a 2014 Duratec Roadsport.  What am I looking for and has anyone removed one?