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Getting a VX into a 1990 chassis


Anthony

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I am changing from XF to VX.

 

I am used to taking engine out in isolation of the g'box which is pretty straght forward and much lighter than the combination.

 

I appreciate the 1990 chassis is based on a std design which will accomodate the VX and I have already had the g'box mounting revised to current dual hole spec.

 

I undertand that a VX can only go in to a chassis without removable cross bracking as a engine/g'box assembly - and it is v. tight

 

Anyone have any constructive suggestions ( other than put a K-series or blade in ...)

 

*confused*

 

Many thanks *thumbup*

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Mine's a 1993 chassis with the non-removeable engine bay diagonals so pretty similar to yours I think.

 

I have never fitted the engine in with the box attached and I'm not sure it would even be possible, if it is you'd need the car very high off the ground.

 

Here's how I do it. Fit the gearbox on it's own and suspend it from the diagonals by the bellhousing with the bellhousing as high as possible in the tunnel. Then put the engine on the hoist and tilt it almost vertical. You need to do this to fit the rear flange of the engine between the diagonals near the front of the engine bay which is the only place where they are wide enough apart. Then gradually lower the engine, bring it back to the horizontal and move it backwards in the engine bay a bit at a time. Once it's almost horizontal it gets to be the right place for the gearbox input shaft to slip into the clutch. Drop the front of the gearbox a tad and it'll all slide together. Easy.

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I'd agree with Chelspeed. We put it in whilst the gearbox was fitted.

 

Getting the angle right for dropping it in needs adjustable pulleys at both ends of the engine to ensure it doesn't slip out. Its a real s*d and getting it out we had to bend one of the crossbraces.

 

If your chassis is still at Arch I would ask them to modify the crossbraces to make them removable - it would be an excellent investment with your intended high state of tune putting far greater stresses on components than you have had previously.

 

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I have the removeble cross members and have only ever taken out engine and gearbox as one. It is pretty easy.

As said it would be a good idea to have the removable ones but not essential.

Roger Swift told me he alway split engine and gbox on his non removeable strut car.

 

 

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Agree completely with Chelspeed, can't stress enough the need to get engine tilted, i.e crank nearly vertical as it goes in. Drop it onto the floor/blocks and shift point of attachment to now pick up engine horizontally, bring it up and slide back onto input shaft. If you're running dry sump take the scavenge pump drive pully off the crankshaft pully before doing all this. All quite straightforward, I've done this on my own now a couple of times with no real probs, just take your time and think about each move before you do it.

 

Alan

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Anthony, i tried a dry fitting last night, very tight, but it is possible to have the gearbox connected with the engine! I have an adjustable crane tilting device, which without it would not be possible. Good luck *thumbup*

 

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