GPBox Posted February 27, 2018 Share Posted February 27, 2018 Hi all, have cleared the engine 'bay' ...exhaust/wiring etc to remove engine....looks like the bolts to secure bell housing to block are pretty accessible..all I want to do is swap the flywheel for a lightweight...plus CRB etc..Is it easier to leave gearbox in car and have the 'challenge' of realigning the g'box to engine with g'box still in car on reinstall ? or take it all out in one go ?also spotted the helpful advice of using 'lifting eyes' vs straps under engine...anyone know where the lifting eyes can be purchased ?cheers. Graham Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Jonathan Kay Posted February 27, 2018 Member Share Posted February 27, 2018 Shaun's Guide....Have you got a balance bar to adjust the pitch angle?... anyone know where the lifting eyes can be purchased ?With a bit of luck you'll be able to borrow those from someone who has completed a build.Is it easier to leave gearbox in car and have the 'challenge' of realigning the g'box to engine with g'box still in car on reinstall ? or take it all out in one go ?Previous discussion.Jonathan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Leadership Team SLR No.77 Posted February 28, 2018 Leadership Team Share Posted February 28, 2018 Leave the gearbox in, support it with a trolley jack so you can easily alter the height when you drop the engine back in. A lifting strap is fine with the k-series, run it pretty well central to the block and it'll balance fine. I've never had a need for lifting eyes or an engine leveller, the engine's fairly light even with most bits bolted on so is easy to tip by hand. Don't forget you'll need to align the clutch pressure plate when you refit the clutch cover to your new flywheel, it's ideal if you can borrow an alignment tool. As an alternative I found a particular 10mm socket in my toolkit which combined with a short extension works 90% as well as the proper tool.When you drop the engine back in make sure the gearbox is in neutral to allow the input shaft to easily rotate to mate the splines with the engine. Also, when the bellhousing and block are bolted up again, loosely fit the engine mounts to both the block and the chassis before tightening them fully. Double check you've refastened the earthing straps.Stu. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bricol Posted February 28, 2018 Share Posted February 28, 2018 Although when the damn input shaft doesn't line up, putting it in gear and rocking the car . . . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GPBox Posted February 28, 2018 Author Share Posted February 28, 2018 great advice all, thanks !....I have an old FMS to align the clutch etc...cheers Graham Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rj Posted February 28, 2018 Share Posted February 28, 2018 Mine was installed without lifting equipment. Raw muscle power did it. I did try with an engine crane, but got fed up with it. Mind you that a bare K-seroes weighs a mere 65kgs Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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