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Waxoyl warning!!!!


RiF

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After the thread on Dinitrol vs Waxoyl I have made some calls.

 

Dinitrol has 47% solids against 30.5% with Waxoil.

Also they say NEVER thin. If you are thinning waxoil you will be applying so little it will not do the job. They say Waxoil is thickened with chemicals and that Dinitrol is not. Although it looks thinner the final covering once solvents have come off is better.

 

Think someone has said that it also seeps further. They say three time more as it does not have the thickening agents added. Also they say do not apply thicker than 40 micron. Otherwise the solvents do not come out properly and the effectivness is reduced. I know everyone says put lots on but this is not necessarily the best way!

 

Allowing for salesmanship and having never tried Dinitrol I pass this on for your comments but it does sound wrong to thin Waxoil like so many of you have.

 

Richard in France

Build is just starting of my Duratec 7, painting this week 😬 *thumbup* 😬 😬

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It does say you can thin Waxoyl, both on the tin and on their website , albeit not by as much as the 50% that some people seem to do.

 

For relatively open areas I find Waxoyl is fine, but i'm not so sure about its ability to creep into small gaps, even when thinned and heated up.

 

Which dinitrol product were they talking about ? there are several

 

Nick

P8MRA - Red and Black 1.6K supersport, back on the road at last. See pictures of it being rebuilt here

 

Edited by - Nick Woods on 27 Feb 2003 17:07:06

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I think it's important not to get too hung up on this. Basically Waxoyl is only a means of using solvent to soften a grtease/wax mixture enough to get it on the car and stop it rotting. The more solvent you use the easier this will be and the thinner the resulting layer. The solvent evaporates anyway. Thinner fluids will creep better, oils have a low surface tension anyway, so IMO the best route is to thin it till it comes out of the gun at a nice rate and then spray everything in sight.

 

Then do it again before winter. Twice. It will wash off in the monsoons, so lash it on as often and liberally as possible. It's an imperfect solution to an impossible problem, you are only delaying the inevitable. If you work hard enough, for long enough, you delay it indefinitely. Unfortunately as Mr Zimmerman once sang, "he not busy being born is busy dying." Bugger.

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Rather than just heat the Waxoyl, I have always found that it creeps better if the car, itself, is warm as well. Hence whenever I have carried out this heinous task in the past, I pick a warm sunny day and leave the car standing in the sun for a couple of hours before starting.

If the car is cold then even warm Waxoyl just seems to solidify almost as soon as it touches the metal. I have never had to thin Waxoyl when applied in this way.

Only difficulty is finding a warm, sunny, day! *cool*

 

Brent

7 not now in so many bits 😬

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Nick,

They are suggesting 3125 suitable for new and old metalwork.

 

Any ideas on getting a spray tube into a pop rivet hole - only size I have found of a spray tube is 6+mm *confused*

 

Richard who was in France but is now in UK to sell his 7 and[blue]

 

build his new Duratec 7 😬 *thumbup* 😬 😬

 

Edited by - richard in france on 28 Feb 2003 22:13:39

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