MattWoking Posted January 12, 2018 Share Posted January 12, 2018 happy new year all quick question ... I'm just about to do all the liquids pre start up and I've wondered if I've made a hash of the brakes. Reason being is thst all the handbrake is in and sorted but when I pull it up, it correctly pulls the part on the brake caliper round but the brakes don't grab the disc.Does this sound right and all will be fine once the fluid is in? or do I need to trouble shoot ... t Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jonathan Kay Posted January 12, 2018 Share Posted January 12, 2018 New build?Which type of 7... factory Sierra calipers?Pads in happily?Jonathan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SM25T Posted January 12, 2018 Share Posted January 12, 2018 When you fit the rear brakes... or replace them in later years .... you need to press hard on the brake pedal (with all pads and discs fitted and air bled out if the system) to activate the rear self adjusters ... before you touch the handbrake lever. Then adjust the cable to get the right number of clicks on the ratchet. Always check the handbrake levers on the calipers return to the stops when the operating lever is released. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MattWoking Posted January 12, 2018 Author Share Posted January 12, 2018 Yeah factory sierra, new build.all went together fine and Derek confirmed the left over pieces were okit may be fine, just thought I'd ask before passing the point of no return Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Area Representative Geoff Brown Posted January 12, 2018 Area Representative Share Posted January 12, 2018 Had this problem on my car a few years ago.So this is what I did to the offending caliper: Completely loosen off the hand brake adjuster , remove cable from actuating lever. With end of a hammer shaft (at least 1.5 lbs ball pein!) exercise the lever full stroke.Refit cable to lever, adjust handbrake & see if this fixes it. Which in my case it did.Otherwise it could be a case of removing caliper, dismantling & winding back the piston then when refitted pump the pedal. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jim 123 Posted January 12, 2018 Share Posted January 12, 2018 Matt, Are you getting quite firm resistance on the handbrake lever after 2 clicks? Might just be cable adjustment. The S3 and SV have different cable routings behind the handbrake lever which may be worth a recheck on your installation. Have you securely cable tied the handbrake cables to the appropriate fixings on the diff and chassis yet, as this has a bearing on residual slack in the mechanism? Have you tried rotating one of the rear hubs and manually actuating the park brake lever on the calliper to see if things bite. Once the system is filled and bled the pistons will settle the pads closer to the brake rotors. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MattWoking Posted January 12, 2018 Author Share Posted January 12, 2018 SM25T - thanks. So I think that means I'm good to go. Fingers crissed! Thanks to all for due input Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MattWoking Posted January 15, 2018 Author Share Posted January 15, 2018 And we're done ... bleeding brakes is quite straight forward, but is more time consuming than I was expecting. The clutch was a bit of an arse, as the manual is compltely different to reality. It feels quite soft at the moment and only on startup will I really know if I've cocked it up good and proper. Just oil, coolant, connect the batter, put it on it's paws and I'm ready to give it a start ... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
East Kent AR Posted January 15, 2018 Share Posted January 15, 2018 Well done Matt.Its worth putting in quite a lot of petrol for the first start too (at least 15 ltrs from memory). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jim 123 Posted January 15, 2018 Share Posted January 15, 2018 A real milestone, camera at the ready! Re next step of putting the oil in, you've probably planned this, but just to mention to check you are getting oil pressure when cranking the engine and with the inertia switch triggered to negate start up. Best of luck. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MattWoking Posted January 16, 2018 Author Share Posted January 16, 2018 Boom, she fired up! Went through all the motions as suggested in teh guidebook (both old and new) and then once all go, the engine turned over for about 6-7 seconds then caught and off she went! Exhilirating, thrilling, exciting and incredibly joyous occasion!Short lived though, as a plethora of issues developed over the next 5 mins. Clearly something is up with the wiring as none of the guages moved. The oil pressure never increased above about 0.5 bar, the tempoerature (Which was showing 80 degrees before I even turned it over) never moved from 80, the fuel tank never even got about an inch below empty .... Oh, and yeah the car doesn't idle either, needed to keep foot on the gas to keep her running ... all points sent off to Derek, as I'm sure I must have missed something very simple.But hey, who cares - the yellow Cat is alive!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SM25T Posted January 16, 2018 Share Posted January 16, 2018 Good news .... sort of ! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jonathan Kay Posted January 16, 2018 Share Posted January 16, 2018 Isn't it fun?Clearly something is up with the wiring as none of the guages moved. The oil pressure never increased above about 0.5 bar, the tempoerature (Which was showing 80 degrees before I even turned it over) never moved from 80, the fuel tank never even got about an inch below empty .... Oh, and yeah the car doesn't idle either, needed to keep foot on the gas to keep her running ... all points sent off to Derek, as I'm sure I must have missed something very simple.Do you want suggestions now, or to wait till you hear back?Do you have a multimeter? :-)Jonathan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DJ. Posted January 16, 2018 Share Posted January 16, 2018 Good to hear its running On my Sigma car, the idle issue was just the butterfly closing completely, there is a very small allen screw on the Caterham throttle body to adjust this.Duncan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MattWoking Posted January 17, 2018 Author Share Posted January 17, 2018 Definitely want suggestions ... !I don't have a multimeter, but logic tells me the only one not getting any current is likely to be the petrol guage. As the others do actually move.I'll look at adjusting the throttle for the idle issue - thanks for the tip. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jim 123 Posted January 17, 2018 Share Posted January 17, 2018 The fuel guage takes an age to move off the stop and with low fuel it may be working OK. With the water temp guage, does it go to 80 straight after the immobiliser flicks off, or do you get the 80 reading when the engine fires? Does the oil pressure guage show any movement at all if you blip the throttle gently? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jonathan Kay Posted January 17, 2018 Share Posted January 17, 2018 What Jim says, and what does the rev counter do? I'd check all the other electrical functions... ... and that the layout of fuses and relays matches what's in the Assembly Guide or Handbook.Jonathan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jonathan Kay Posted January 17, 2018 Share Posted January 17, 2018 Recommended multimeter: Draper 60792.and treat yourself to a pair of matching leads with croc clips.Jonathan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MattWoking Posted January 17, 2018 Author Share Posted January 17, 2018 The rev counter is ok. IT's quite jumpy, not as smooth as a production car, but does work.The water temp goes to 80 as soon as soon as it has power - i.e before the engine starts.The pressure guage moved from the red to 0.8b or so when I was cranking with the inertia switch off. However, once I started it, it didn't move. Blips on the throttle does nothing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jonathan Kay Posted January 17, 2018 Share Posted January 17, 2018 How about the instrument lights (and all of the other electrical functions: lights, horn, engine fan, heater fan etc)?The rev counter is ok. IT's quite jumpy, not as smooth as a production car, but does work.Jumpy when the engine speed is constant, or only when it changes?With more than one instrument not working properly I'd check: That the system voltage is constant and appropriate, but that will have to wait for the multimeter. That there isn't a bad contact in the feed: check the fuse and its fit in the fuseholder. That the instrument earth is good: find it, see if it's loose, disconnect, inspect and reconnect.After that it's on to tracing each suspicious circuit.And the engine oil level again.Jonathan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JNC Posted January 17, 2018 Share Posted January 17, 2018 Re visit all the earthing points and give them a clean and tighten include under the scuttle Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JNC Posted January 17, 2018 Share Posted January 17, 2018 Re visit all the earthing points and give them a clean and tighten include under the scuttle Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jim 123 Posted January 17, 2018 Share Posted January 17, 2018 If Derek from CC hasn't yet come up with a puff of smoke, here are a few stupid thoughts from me............ probably of no help whatsoever.On my Sigma kit, when you switch the ignition on, the oil pressure gauge needle comes to life and positions off the needle stop. The temp gauge remains on the stop. Your car seems to be doing the opposite. Are the factory installed gauges in their correct holes and not cross wired behind the dash? Unlikely but if nobody asks etc. etc.What happens at your gauges if you disconnect the Temp Sender at the submarine? Ditto the Oil Pressure Sender at the push pull that connects the sender lead to the engine loom? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MattWoking Posted January 17, 2018 Author Share Posted January 17, 2018 Thanks for the tips - will check them out. Latest update .. I think the current seems consistent and strong. I've hooked up the rear lights and they work as expected. The dash lights work fine as well. So overall, I think the electrics on the whole are ok, but is something a bit dodgy on these guages. The heater works as expected.So tomorrow, will go through all the fuses to makes sure they are ok, tighten and check earthing points, look at submarine, and the oil pressure sender.I suspect the temperature maybe related to an air bubble. When I filled up the coolant and it took much less than expected and then this morning the coolant tank was the same. However when I Came back in the afternoon, it had dropped drmatically - so I suspect a large air pocked may have come out.Thanks as always for the help! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jonathan Kay Posted February 4, 2018 Share Posted February 4, 2018 Did you find anything interesting on the electrical leads?Jonathan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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