1.8 K series

[p.mole1]

I am busy building up a 1.8 K series and have just fitted a new oil pump. It is supposed to be genuine Land Rover part, made by Brosal looks it was manufactured in 2005

When looking at the end of the crank, the oil seal does not sit centrally on the crankshaft if that makes sense. Also the cambelt pulley has quite a large amount of radial play, is this normal? Other than that everything else seems fine. I have used new main and conrod bearings,new liners and rings, second hand Trophy 160 pistons and the engine turns over at 12Nm at it's tightest spot with head on without cams. I'm quite surprised how free it is.

[SLR No.77]

With regard to the play in the belt pulley, I have had the same and it's not an issue. When the front pulley is fitted it'll all tighten up fine.

Stu.

[oilyhands]

The eccentric fit of the seal is a worry, but the slack in the cambelt sprocket is normal and one of the main reasons you need verniers to time cams correctly. Once the pulley is bolted on the sprocket position will be maintained by the clamp, however the initial radial position can vary considerably , when the belt is changed this position can move which can disrupt the cam timing, this is why it is important to check the cam timing carefully each time the belt is changed, especially on those engine with more extreme cams. The extent to which the timing can vary is quite marked, I have measured up to 8 degrees in either direction which is enough to cause valve/piston contact if the sprocket moves from one extent to the other.

Oily

[revilla]

I'm struggling to understand what you mean about the oil seal fitment. Can you post a picture? Is the seal pressed flat into the oil pump? When fitting the seal over the end of the crank you haven't trapped and turned over the lip of the seal on one side, making it look asymmetric have you? If the pump is correctly located and bolted to the block and the crank is fitted as it should be (i.e. you haven't done something grossly wrong like missing out half the bearing shells, which I'm quite sure you haven't!) it's hard to see how it could be far wrong. When you spin the engine over, the nose of the crank just spins straight and true rather than moving round in a circle?

[p.mole1]

The oil seal is very slightly off center, as if the bore for the oil seal has not been machined centrally, we are only talking fractions of a mm. It is a genuine Land Rover part. I will have to remove it and try the old pump, it could be the same and if that's the case it's ok as it didn't leak. It could just be a poor quality oil seal 

[p.mole1]

Engine is now in the car with the help of my wife!  I have gone from a 1.4 k series to 1.8. I am running an Emerald ecu and the car was set up on a rolling road with 1.4 injectors.

The new engine is the same spec but I will be using the cream 1.8 injectors, will the old map be ok using the 1.8 injectors? Also my car has its original copper radiator, this seems quite thin do you think this will be up to job on a 160 bhp engine?

[simon_h]

I wouldn't run it other than gently until you can get it redone. Is it a ported head, throttle bodies etc which I guess it must be if you are expecting 160hp, if so then definitely get it done properly. If on a plenum with map sensor light load may compensate enough in closed loop. If all alpha n then I would be careful.

Rad will probably be fine for all but the hottest days in traffic 

[TomB]

Radiator will probably be Ok for road use, but see how it goes. 

However, if your running larger cream injectors and it’s been mapped for the smaller 1.4 Blue injectors, you’ll ends up overfuelling the new engine. The map tell the injectors how long to squirt fuel for - ‘injector duration’. It will now tell the larger injectors to squirt for the same duration as the smaller ones, hence you’ll be running rich.  

 

[oilyhands]

A better match would be the TF160 blue injectors, they be close enough for it to run quite happily as they represent a capacity increase commensurate with the engine capacity increase. You will eventually need a mapping session but it should run acceptably well.

Oily

[p.mole1]

Thanks, my current radiator was ok with the 1.4 but I concerned it might not cope with track days on the 1.8, although I am going to fit a remote thermostat. I will be getting the engine mapped once I've run it in, although I had a panic today when I tried to get oil pressure on the starter. I ended up removing the filter and it still took a while to get oil through. 

I should have filled the pump with gear oil or grease? I will try and get some TF 160 injectors, I just need it run well enough to do a few hundred miles to run in the rings in

[TomB]

I’d sort the injectors first before running it in. If your overfuelling you run the risk of bore wash. Don’t underestimate the importance of running in. 

[oilyhands]

If all else fails I probably have some TF160 injectors kicking around here. They really are the perfect match

1400cc to 1800cc is a 28% capacity increase.

149cc 1400 blue injector to 192cc TF160 injector is a  28% capacity increase.

Oily

[ric355]

On the radiator question, I have a 160bhp 1.8 with ported heads, forged pistons, lightweight flywheel etc. It runs just fine on the standard radiator on track days. I did switch to an aluminium radiator at one point but switched back because it started to weep. The standard spec one was just fine.

[p.mole1]

Thanks, It looks like I may have managed to get hold of a set of Tf 160 injectors, glad the standard radiator seems ok that's a saving! although I will be fitting a remote thermostat.