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k overheating or is it


gavingraysonr300

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Blatchat is really missing the old members who had experience of these issues.

Gavin, unless it's been modified the sender for the coolant temperature gauge is in the rear of the water rail directly above exhaust primary number 4, if you're sat in stationary traffic the heat from the primaries causes the water rail to heat up substantially and this will show on the gauge. As soon as you pick up any speed it will cool back down quite rapidly to normal temperature.

Unless it's been modified the thermostatic switch for the fan is on the top of the radiator and will activate based upon radiator temperature not engine temperature - obviously the two will be somewhat linked but when you're sat in traffic they will behave differently, therefore what you see on the temperature gauge will not be directly indicative of what's going on with the fan.

If these two cases are both correct, you have nothing to worry about and your engine is fine.

Stu.

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Spot on Stu the car was in for tracking being checked after i changed the track rods so asked him if he would have a look at what was going on with his heat gun. After 2 hours of checking temps he said the penny finally dropped temp at sensor 120deg temp at pipe coming into rail 57deg so he fitted a heat deflector and sure enough temp at sensor 73deg. never done this before but i had a decat pipe put on when it was refurbished and the problem has been since then it did have air locks but sorted them after they had refilled it. i can only think that the new primaries are a bit closer to the sensor or my mechanic said my old primaries could of been coated think he said ceramic coated internally. do you think it might be an idea to get them heat wrapped. seams to be behaving at the moment but will see how it goes.

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Get one of these from Caterham: https://caterhamparts.co.uk/other/2148-cooling-submarine-rover-2-outlet.html, you'll need the "blanks" to fit in each take-off outlet as well plus a couple of hose clips. It's fitted into the coolant bypass hose that runs round the rear of the engine, or in the hose from the coolant rail to the heater if you have a heater fitted. This enables the senders for the coolant gauge and the ecu to be relocated away from the coolant rail / exhaust primaries to give more stable readings. The ecu will have had false temperature readings as well as the gauge potentially upsetting the running but you're not likely to have noticed.

Stu.

 

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I can't answer regarding the exhaust, however the problem tends to only occur in particularly warm weather, the exhaust may just be coincidental.

You may or may not need to earth via the threaded rod depending upon the age of the car - if the senders that you relocate have two wires to each they're already earthed, if the gauge sender has one wire it will have been earthed through the coolant rail, in this case you'd need to earth the new pipe to enable the sender to work. I think your car will not need an extra earth, I'm sure the change happened around 1996 with the change from VDO to Caerbont gauges.

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... provided that the bracket was metal and bolted to a clean/unpainted bit of chassis making a good contact. I'm not being silly, there was a recent case of a car with starting issues which turned out to he caused by the main ECU earth being bolted down to the plastic heater!
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