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Oil burning 'K's


allegro

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Why does my VHPD burn oil 🤔

They all do that Sir

But why 🤔

 

Can someone explain. Is it bad fit rings ? or is my head gasket at the end of it's teather ?

I must go through a Ltr ever 1K mls.

 

 

 

Andy Mac C7 GON

😬 Team Langoustine. Hard Core Prawn here 😬

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Two causes

 

Bad bedding of the rings

Slack in the guides

 

Quite often the liners arent well honed or are out of spec and the engine bedding in isnt done properly or is done on syntetic oil, this impedes the bedding process for the rings and the bores glaze over, I have seen this cured by using Vim or Ajax powder (my age is showing here) sprinkled into the inlet while the engine is running followed by an upper cylinder lubricant such as Redex.

 

The guides are a lottery, sometimes new guides are fine, other ones I've seen have been outside of the top limit on *new* heads.

 

A hone of the liners and new rings might cure it.

 

Oily

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Andy,

 

Inappropriate fuelling on the Emerald can cause bore wash and excessive oil consumption. A lot of the Emerald maps out there are very unfinished at part throttle and high revs. Flameouts would be another indicator. very important to fix ans oil in the combustion chamber makes a mess and leads to detonation and "bad things ".

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Thanks gents.

Peter, my Emerald has been set up at Emerald and so I have to assume is correct. If it's not, I'm not likely to know how to fix it. I am not getting any flameouts or back firing.

 

This has not just started, it's been burning oil since new.

 

Andy Mac C7 GON

😬 Team Langoustine. Hard Core Prawn here 😬

 

Edited by - ALLEGRO on 24 Feb 2003 15:59:26

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My friends Rover 200 BRM (1.8K VVC engine I think) drank about 1l of oil per 1000 miles too. Rover replaced the engine 😳 after 8000 miles and the second one was much better. No confessions by Rover as to what the exact problem was though *thumbdown*

 

P979TMV - As seen on current Caterham advert, back of LF

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When I asked, I was advised by CC not to use too fancy an oil for the first fill in order that the rings bed in properly. Otherwise you can get the consumption!

 

I have procured some basic 15w40 mineral oil for that very task and will change to synthetic later.

 

MG Rover apparently do not put full synthetic oil in and the first service on our Rover 25 was 15K miles or 12 months as I recall.

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Allegro

 

Before you strip your engine to have the bores honed you could try doing the following:

 

Drop the oil and replace with a mineral oil of suitable grade. Nothing too expensive or fancy. You then load up the car with old toolboxes/sacks of cement/fat geezers. Get as much weight into the car as you can. Take it out where you can put some load on. Going up and down hills is good. Make the engine work. I wouldn't leave the il in for more than three of four hundred miles. If the bores haven't run in because of the synthetic oil this may solve your problem. If the RA (Roughness Average) or cross hatch pattern of the finished bore is incorrect then you are probably not going to cure it this way.

 

The engines I build are blueprinted to the highest clearances I think appropriate so they are more or less ready to go from new. I use a good semi-synthetic for running in but make sure I give the engine some stick from quite early on. Seems to work for me. After a couple of oil changes at around 1000 miles and then a gain at 200 miles I switch to a fully synthetic.

 

Hope this helps.

 

AMMO

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I have been told of a similar solution employed by an agent selling British made luxury cars - allegedly.

 

If the bores are glazed up / not run in, put in a couple of gallons of the £2.50 a can stuff then cane it around the place for a couple of hundred miles - then switch back to the good stuff.

 

So I was told *wink*

 

Low tech solutions are sometimes the best in the long run 😬

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