MadCat52 Posted July 16, 2017 Share Posted July 16, 2017 2005 K Series 1.8 with about 26K miles. Top end light noise, almost a rattle, under light load conditions; occurs when both cold and hot; disappears when under heavier loads. No appearance of loss of power.My first thoughts are something around the hydraulic tappets - do they fail? Before diving in, grateful for thoughts on what else it might be?ThanksBob Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wrightpayne Posted July 16, 2017 Share Posted July 16, 2017 EU2 or 3? Mines EU2 and has the ally cover over the plugs/leads which developed a funny buzz because one wnd was lose so acted like a massive tuning fork! I added some rubber washers and its been fine sinceIan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thompster Posted July 16, 2017 Share Posted July 16, 2017 Injectors? They can be noisy. Worth getting someone else to have a listen - when I first got my car I was sure the top end was too noisy but it turns out they all sound like that.But if you do think it's the followers then check your oil pressure at low revs in case the followers are a symptom of low oil pressure. For them to be tappy they'd need to have air in them or be pumped up to too low a pressure. Maybe try an oil change, possibly to a thicker grade. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Area Representative Piers300 Posted July 16, 2017 Area Representative Share Posted July 16, 2017 Check the alternator mounting bracket points. I had a lug break on mine due to overtightning and it rattled to the extent I thought the big or little ends had gone. Mine needed a new bracket, as the alternator was fine.Piers Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SM25T Posted July 17, 2017 Share Posted July 17, 2017 What oil do you use ? 5W-50 for a k-series without VVC. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MadCat52 Posted July 17, 2017 Author Share Posted July 17, 2017 It's an EU3 but I'll double check the cover tightness and the alternator bracket next time. Yep, using 5W-50 as spec. Still have the standard electrical (hopeless!) oil pressure guage which has always shown low oil pressure - red to 2 bar max. Is there a way/piece of kit to reliably test the oil pressure at the top end without resorting to the full mechanical guage conversion? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SM25T Posted July 17, 2017 Share Posted July 17, 2017 Fitting a mechanical gauge costs about the same as one electrical sender. So much more reliable. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
elie boone Posted July 18, 2017 Share Posted July 18, 2017 you can fit a mechanical gauge in place of the oil pressure sender just to check the oil pressure, it's the same tread as the mechanical gauge on an aircompressor. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Jonathan Kay Posted July 18, 2017 Member Share Posted July 18, 2017 Still have the standard electrical (hopeless!) oil pressure guage which has always shown low oil pressure - red to 2 bar max. Is there a way/piece of kit to reliably test the oil pressure at the top end without resorting to the full mechanical guage conversion?If mine failed I'd fit a remote electronic sensor.Jonathan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roger Ford Posted July 18, 2017 Share Posted July 18, 2017 Hydraulic tappets can get air trapped in them which makes them noisy. Fix is simple, rev the ballcocks off it it for a short while.Simply rev it to 6000+ RPM and hold for about 20 seconds. It's painful to do if you're mechanically sympathetic, but should cure the problem if that's what it is. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now