310S first start sequence

[Jakeypoppet]

Hi All,

trying to start my 310S for the first time.

what is the key/push button sequence? - it seems that most times I turn the key right round then the immobiliser light flashes vigorously and pushing the big red button doesn't do anything.

when I am able to turn the engine over (with inertia switch disconnected), the engine is turned over nicely at 1100 rpm by the starter motor.

however, there is no oil pressure building up - even cranking several times for 30 seconds each go. Any ideas why not? 

I noticed that the oil pressure dial does set to zero when the ignition is set - it just doesn't move after that :) where is the oil pressure sensor? Maybe I haven't got it connected properly.

also, the fuel gauge isn't reading anything even with the 10l I just put in... maybe that's related!

thank you all for your help in advance!

[Paul 160]

Hi, with my 160 I have to wait for about 5 seconds for the fuel pump (I presume that's what it is) to go quiet before pressing the start button. Pressing it before that does nothing. The increased speed of the led I believe means the immobiliser is disarming. It should go normal slow flashing, fast flashing then off. If it doesn't stop flashing are you getting the fob close enough to the key barrel when turning the key?

Paul.

[Tom_Arundel]

I assume this is a new build.  Immobiliser is disarmed by a fob on the key set which has to be `jiggled` close to the aeriel which is around the steering lock when key is in position 2 (unless you have a different system) then press red button. Did you prime the oil filter with oil? Will take a long time if you didn`t.        10 litres is barely enough in a dry tank, more fuel will help. Nothing will happen until you trigger/disarm immobiliser.

[Jim 123]

As Azul says, you probably need to twiddle the immobiliser around the key barrel as there I'd a small antenna that talks to the immobiliser fob.  When the immobiliser is deactivated the red light goes out and stops flickering and you're ready to crank the engine.  You may find that 1 of your 2 fobs is not paired but the paring sequence is described in your handbook.

The pressure sensor is on the left of the block near the starter motor.  Maybe check that oil is getting pumped up to the cam cover before you do any more cranking? There was a posting on here recently where the sensor on a new build was at fault.

Chances are you'll get a reading on the fuel gauge with a few more litres in the tank.  The gauge on my car takes quite a few minutes to give a reading.

[Jonathan Kay]

As above.

There was a posting on here recently where the sensor on a new build was at fault.

And I think the same discussion included others' experiences of how long it took for the pressure to rise in a new engine. Let us know if you can't find it.

If you're cranking repeatedly, especially with the plugs in place, measure the minimum battery voltage while you're cranking as well as guessing by ear how fast it seems to be turning.

Jonathan

[Goslima1]

I second the fuel comment above - the manual specifies a minimum of 15 L I believe. I tried to start my new 420R with 10 L in the fuel tank and it was having none of it. Cannot comment on the oil pressure as my car is dry sumped however I wouldnt start it without some incling of pressure if it were me. Good luck.

[Steveh7]

probably irrelevant as mine is a 1.6k with Apollo however when I had it rebuilt it took over 15 x 10 second cranks to even get a flicker on the oil pressure gauge (oil filter filled but apollo was empty)

 

[Jig]

Hi mate - check my blog, I had the same problem. It fixed itself oddly, when I tried to ground the gauge manually and blew the fuse, once replaced it sprung into life. Fault was exactly as you describe. Caterham had no answer for me though, and suggested that they'd simply fix it at post build, so not sure there is an understood fault.

As for the immobiliser point, mine does that all the time and I am in the habit of simply turning the key several times. I'll investigate the wiggling option when I start driving it.

I'm sure I read somewhere that the fuel gauge doesn't work until you have put 20l or more into the tank initially to reset the sender (or something). I might have dreamed that though...

 

[Jakeypoppet]

Hi All,

thanks for your suggestions.

Derek at Caterham told me to just try and start it so I did (ie, reconnected inertia switch so fuel pump functioned). It started first time! And straight up to 4 on the oil pressure.

i have a feeing that because I was holding the key round to the third position as well as pushing the start button that this was forcing the dials to zero when cranking engine with inertia switch disconnected - can't be sure though!

i also added another 10 litres of fuel (up to 20 l in total) and eventually the fuel gauge started to read properly (about 3/4 full).

it seems that the idle is set too low (1000rpm) so the engine cuts out straight away without pushing the throttle. I can't immediately see a way to adjust the idle speed so just pulled on the throttle cable sleeve to keep it going at 1700rpm - also allowing engine to get hot til fan kicked in. Took surprisingly long time to get up to 90 C! Also alarming amount of smoke coming off the exhaust components as they got hot for the first time! Is the idle setting the small sprung screw behind the lever on the throttle bottle body?

all the electrics seem to function as intended too - which I was pleasantly surprised by!

[Tom_Arundel]

Check the inlet manifold for security of pipes and blanking caps, air leaks could stop it idling.New engine may be a bit tight but should idle from cold at about 900 rpm. Cat should cut in after 30 seconds.

[Jig]

The engine will not run properly until the TPS is set up.This is a job done during the post build check and is not something that is easy to do yourself (I am told) and needs to be set very accurately. The official answer is therefore don't worry about it, they'll sort it out when it is in for PBC. Poor idling is absolutely a symptom of TPS maladjustment. I resorted to a small block of wood under the throttle pedal during the build.

[Jim 123]

There is an small idle adjust screw on the throttle stop below where the cable is secured.  It's a small hex head screw from memory.  It does not take much of a movement increase the tickover revs.

Maybe somebody can confirm? But I was told that the TPS reset is basically a switch on and off of the ignition (allowing the immobiliser to deactivate), a couple of time.  Then with the ignition on, and the car immobilised, slowly depress the throttle to the floor and allow it to return to the stop.  Next press the start button with no foot on the right pedal.

[Sussex West AR]

get your self along to the next west sussex meet Wednesday 19th July at the Limeburners(see Area Meets for details).Ther are  about 6 caterham owners within acouple of miles of Chichester.

Les and Sheila.