Lee Mabee Posted February 21, 2003 Share Posted February 21, 2003 would like help....has anyone fit a Nippondenso 12V/50amp...on a new generation Zetec (01)....would be mounted injection side.... am looking to lighten wt of alternator....do not feel that I can do a "battery rundown" as the car is injected...(would fear voltage drop ..would cause serious computer problems) 1) is there a provider of a mounting bracket (or does one just use the Zetec bracket as a model and have a new one fabricated)?? 2) is there a source (preferably alloy) for an 'alternator' underdrive pulley (am unable to use a crank underdrive as my Electromotive timing wheel is 'pressed' on to the existing pulley and harmonic balancer)---the serpentine belt I believe is 6 grooves??? would need to mate with Nippon above... thank you...........Lee (Snowy So. Dak...checked on the cars (Caterhams). all came out of hibernation...saw their shadows.....) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Carmichael Posted February 21, 2003 Share Posted February 21, 2003 Battery rundown does not have quite the effects you suggest. The killer when running a small alternator (I use the Nippon Denso) is use in traffic (do you use on the road?) when the electric cooling fan cuts in. Couple this with night time use (lights on) and hot ambient conditions (fan is on a lot, but appreciate not relevant in So. Dak right now) and you have the worst of all worlds and the battery rundown will happen. The electronics will generally cope just fine and adjust the injection timing to allow for slower opening of the injectors. They are used to running with cranking voltage as low as 9 volts. Generally the situation I have painted is still low current draw and the alternator is *doing something*. Voltage will remain above 11 volts until you have seriously screwed the battery. The problem with battery rundown is that automotive starting batteries are susceptible to being run down anywhere below 80% charge capacity (ie. you can only use the top 20% charge). They degrade so that they never take a full charge again and internal resistance goes up. This affects you next time you try to start the engine. The Nippon Denso (if it is the one I am thinking of) is not a good choice for a road car (I have been using one for two years). It has a very low ratio between minimum charging revs and maximum about to blow up revs. Brise, who supplied mine, didn't recommend running the alternator above 12,000rpm. It only kicks out a decent charge at 3000rpm. This would be OK on a stock pinto but is absolutely no good on a race-tuned K-series and no pulley configuration will help. FWIW, I ran mine up to 14,000 and it blew up. YMMV. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lee Mabee Posted February 22, 2003 Author Share Posted February 22, 2003 Peter....thanks for the data....this car is not street.used as solo (I think this is your sprint equivalent 1 to 1.5 mile)..no headlights...soon no taillights.(ongoing wt. reduction)... Ford supplied Zetec.alternator with smaller pulley is handling revs(engine) to 8000-8500 appreciate the battery data.....was thinking of using relay...so that at the "line"could switch the alternator 'off' and just use the battery for the run (free-spooling) and then switch the alternator on after the run...? again thanks....Lee Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Carmichael Posted February 22, 2003 Share Posted February 22, 2003 A better arrangement is something like Alterpower, which shuts down the alternator at full throttle. It wires it back in when you come off the throttle, which gives you good engine braking and gets the charge back in the battery in all circumstances where a bit of charge can be recovered without affecting your power demands. You have to be at the very sharpest end of competition before this will change a result, but having lost a sprint by 3 hundredths I cam appreciate the motivation. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yankeedoodoo Posted February 22, 2003 Share Posted February 22, 2003 Lee, Are you hitting 8000-8500 RPMs on the stock crankshaft? If not, what are you using? I would also assume the the pistons/rods are not stock. What sort of HP/torque does your motor produce? My zetec is 205-210 on stock pistons, crankshaft; all modifications are on the top. Do you know what DBs the car puts out and is the # a problem? I'm hoping that you get an early spring!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lee Mabee Posted February 22, 2003 Author Share Posted February 22, 2003 Peter.......thanks....I've seen the Nationals Solo 2.....1st/2nd place being .001 seconds over a course of 2 days .....approximately 3.0 miles... last year I got lucky at the Midwest Divisionals...and won by a margin of .035 seconds .....2 day cumulative time over 3.0 miles.....so appreciate your story... unfortunately this has lead to desire to wt reduce and look wherever I can for a little extra time....currently waitting on drilled rotors...will post wt. savings and source once completed... yankeedoodoo.....my engine was built a bit different than yours....bottom is stock crank and rod....porting is stock...Kent cams...alloy pistons to get compression to 12.5...TWM 50mm injection intake.... approximately 200hp and 160 ft. torque....alloy flywheel....etc....we were looking for a fat torque curve particulary at the bottom end ----engine is fine ....driver is slow.... the engine is making enough HP that I wish I had used upgrade rods....especially since so fast revving ,,,that, things sneak right past the rev limiter...if set to 8000 ...will commonly see data showing revs to 8200-8500 when reviewing data from a run...Lee Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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