andy99998 Posted May 15, 2017 Share Posted May 15, 2017 Some of the powder coating on my chassis is starting to flake in a few areas, the rest is in good condition - its only a 2011 after all, just wondering if there is anything I can do to touch it up...I don't really want to wait for the day when surface rust has well and truly set in!Andy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jonathan Kay Posted May 15, 2017 Share Posted May 15, 2017 I think the favoured treatment is POR-15. From the archives!Jonathan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andy99998 Posted May 15, 2017 Author Share Posted May 15, 2017 I was hearing good things about KBS rust seal, sounds like a similar kind of product....any comparisons? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Deslandes Posted May 15, 2017 Share Posted May 15, 2017 Arch use Simoniz can spray paint after doing minor repairs. It's a lot better than spray Hammerite at covering and on corners/sharp edges. It's available on ebay in gloss and matt. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jonathan Kay Posted May 15, 2017 Share Posted May 15, 2017 Do you know how they prime, please?Jonathan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Deslandes Posted May 15, 2017 Share Posted May 15, 2017 JKThey don't and neither do I on clean bare metal, three or four coats and the job's a good 'un. I've used it on bare aluminium and bare steel for small jobs and once hard it stays on pretty well. The black matches the original Arch powdercoat pretty well in terms of colour too.Paul Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jonathan Kay Posted May 15, 2017 Share Posted May 15, 2017 ThanksJonathan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul McKenzie Posted May 15, 2017 Share Posted May 15, 2017 Wire brush off the loose powdercoat, then convert any rust with brushed on phosphoric acid (off Ebay 'cos the EU says you can't buy anything commercial that works any more as you're likely to drink it, or throw it at people ), then brush on 'Hammerite with Waxoyl' Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DJ. Posted May 15, 2017 Share Posted May 15, 2017 I've heard very good reports (both personal and in Practical Classics) of Epoxymastic:http://www.rust.co.uk/em-121-epoxy-rust-proofing-chassis-paint/c28117/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bricol Posted May 15, 2017 Share Posted May 15, 2017 The epoxy paints are good but do need applying to the correct surface - ie blasted.I applied some to the bottom of a Lancia integrale 12 or so years ago and then used it every day, all weathers, all conditions, left outside all the time.Epoxy applied to blasted areas - still intact, still holding strong and not coming off!Epoxy applied to wire brushed, power wire brushed - solid layer in most cases, but detached from surface with rust underneath, easy to remove large flakes of paint.Ordinary metal primer / paint still reasonably attached to similarly wire brushed areas.My conclusion on the 25yr old rebuild of the Lancia - apply epoxy to blasted areas! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jonathan Kay Posted May 15, 2017 Share Posted May 15, 2017 Wire brush off the loose powdercoat, then convert any rust with brushed on phosphoric acid (off Ebay 'cos the EU says you can't buy anything commercial that works any more as you're likely to drink it, or throw it at people? What concentration would you like?Jonathan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul McKenzie Posted May 16, 2017 Share Posted May 16, 2017 Never been the same since they removed the DCM from Nitromors with the result that it's a paint stripper that doesn't strip paint anymore . Chlorinated hydrocarbons are death of course My 15 year old bottle of Turtle Wax Rust Eater turned to hard jelly, so couldn't be brush painted any more-so I bought the new Hammerite Curust (Akzo Nobel) equivalent, what a load of total rubbish, thin as water so can only be applied on top of surfaces, great for chassis repairs, I don't think!!!As you say POR15 is probably the best choice now, imported from the States, so good on yer, Mr. Trump and those before you who believe industry has a place in modern society. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TomB Posted May 17, 2017 Share Posted May 17, 2017 What is the Simonz product? Ive run out of POR15 and thinner, and would like something a bit more user friendly. Ive found Simonzz Tough Black Paint - is that it? https://www.holtsauto.com/simoniz/products/one-coat-tough-paints/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jonathan Kay Posted May 17, 2017 Share Posted May 17, 2017 Probably as discussed here.Jonathan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TomB Posted May 17, 2017 Share Posted May 17, 2017 JK, I know you're rather fond of links, but a link to page 1 of this thread is a tad unnecessary! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jonathan Kay Posted May 17, 2017 Share Posted May 17, 2017 Whoops.Recursion: see Recursion.SorryJonathan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now