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Bleeding K-Series


SLR No.77

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Never had any trouble bleeding the coolant system on my K-series, until I've fitted a heater. I've had the front of the car on ramps which was the system I used without the heater, but this time it's just not working.

 

Just how high do I need to get the front of the car? Is there anything else that will help?

 

Stu.

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I needed a hoist to get the front high enough but still found it difficult.

 

One way to reduce the airlock around the heater is to carefuly undo the top heater hose and backfill it with coolant. You'll need to plug the heater connector and put some cloths down to stop spillage. I also filled the last bit of the radiator through the top vent hole too and that cracked it. Hope that makes sense.

 

Bruce

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Disconnect the heater hose from the back of the water rail, jack the front of the car up and blow into the header tank to expel the air from the heater and water rail - stick it back together before your garage is awash with coolant.

 

Miraz

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Miraz - it's your old heater! You mean you've probably gossed in it??????????

I'll give it a go, but snogging the seven is pushing the boat out a little...............

 

BTW, has the heater control cable departed your out-tray yet?

 

Stu.

 

Edited by - sforshaw on 20 Feb 2003 22:57:40

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Ok - snogged the car etc etc. A little better.

 

There is now however an odd situation - when up to temperature, it sits stable for a while, then steadily rises to 120C. Sits there for maybe 30 - 60 seconds, then plummets back to about 85 - 90C. Stable for a minute or so, then back upto 120C, then plummets to 85 - 90C and so on and so on ..... 3 cycles this morning coming to work.

 

Is this a coolant or a thermostat problem?

 

Stu.

 

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Stu

As you know I have a heater and find the following method best and normally no need to raise front of car:-

Fill system to to mark on expansion tank then put top back on.

Remove bleed valve from rad and fill via small hole until rad is full.

Replace bleed screw.

Make sure heater valve is open - normally means pulling control knob out.

Place rags under hoses around heater (to catch excess water)

Remove top hose on heater (goes to water rail as I recall) and place thumb over inlet to heater.

Fill with water using funnel in heater hose holding in air.

When hose and heater are full refit to heater asap trying not to spill too much.

Make sure everything is tight.

 

Paul R.

C7PPR

K series that starts when hot!!

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I have no trouble at all as long as the bleed valve on the radiator is the highest point in the system, higher than the heater matrix. I do have to raise the front higher than my trolley jack will actually lift.

 

Jerry Parker

L7SVN

1.4 Supersport

 

Edited by - l7svn on 25 Feb 2003 08:30:05

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Thanks all - problem solved based on everybody's advice 😬

 

Did as you said Paul and disconnected heater. Filled radiator to top, expansion tank to level, and heater hoses. Expansion tank did finish a little fuller than I would have liked though! This is probably why it's best to raise the fornt of the car *idea*

 

There was one mod I made which may have had a lot of effect ..... the bottom hose at the water pump end (rear of the submarine tube) originally ran above the "umbrella" hose, which runs back to the heater. This is how the car was set up originally without the heater. The bottom hose from the pump actually ran uphill before dropping down to the submarine tube - a potential for an air-lock *thumbdown* I've rejigged the hoses to eliminate the uphill, with the umbrella tube now above the large bore pump hose - no uphills 😬

 

Filled the system, ran upto approx 105 deg then settled down, and hasn't moved beyond 90 since *thumbup* *thumbup* *thumbup* *thumbup* *thumbup* *thumbup*

 

Cheers everyone.

 

Stu.

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