Damper extension fitting

[tommyg]

So......been worried about my clearance for a while, finally worked out I should have had damper extensions fitted (confirmed by Derek, 12 months after my car passed its IVA!).

Any tips on how to fit them, in particular:

(i) How do i get existing heads off the damper (is it straightforward)?

(ii) What torque does the extension need to go to?

(iii) Other threads suggest that Bilstein fit them with Loctite - is this necessary?

(iv) Any other useful tips?

Reallyannoying!

Thanks!
Tom

 

[Paul McKenzie]

It's not particularly straightforward unless you have some means of compressing the spring and access to a strong vice.

First you compress the spring (careful here as this could result in injury if you get it wrong) and remove the retaining collar and then the spring. Then clamp the damper piston rod in the vice as firmly as possible using some sort of guard (rubber or wood on the vice jaws)  so you don't damage the rod-the vice needs to be extremely tight or the rod will spin.  Then put a bar through the eye of the bush and wind it off-it's often very tight and secured with loctite (although I have no idea why loctite is required).  Put the extension on then reassemble.

[ChrisC]

I did it a few years ago when I converted a car to wide track.   I was expecting it to be a mission, but it was actual very straight forward.   Removed the spring, removed the mounting end, add the extent ion and reassembled.   From memory there is a nut that locks the mount to the shaft, so it's simple to remove.  I had concerns how I was going to hold it without damage.   Don't know a torque setting, but loctite seems like a good idea, you will be able to see if some has been.

[tommyg]

Thanks Chris/Paul

Quite different views!  By the sound of it, could be that it depends on the damper (i.e. whether it has the nut connecting the mount).  Unfortunately - it looks like mine does not - so I end up with Paul's issue.

In which case, how do you compress the spring?

Or is it more generally recommended I get a garage to do it?

 

Thanks
Tom

 

 

 

[Paul McKenzie]

It's not that easy to find a manufactured spring compressor that fits the front and rear springs on a Caterham - the critical factor is for the jaws to be narrow enough to fit between the spring coils. I have a home made one, but I think your best bet might be to get a pair of likely looking ones from ebay, or ask a garage to do it.  Maybe something like these:

 

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/New-Pair-Of-Heavy-Duty-Coil-Spring-Compressor-Suspension-Struts-Clamps-Jaws-2pcs/182052165615?_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851&_trkparms=aid%3D555018%26algo%3DPL.SIM%26ao%3D2%26asc%3D43781%26meid%3Df12e4620e820466e954b9523c983f5e7%26pid%3D100005%26rk%3D2%26rkt%3D6%26mehot%3Dpp%26sd%3D172493151409

[Jonathan Kay]

Someone generous might lend you a set... or even add them to the equipment register...

Jonathan

[ChrisC]

I just unwound the spring seats mostly by hand, guess thats the benefit of adjustable platforms.    Sounds like I got it easy for once. 

[Bricol]

The lock nut will be obscured by the spring/collar/bumpstop.

I too used home made spring compressors (bits of OEM Metro engine mount from before Austin Rover beefed them up to stop them breaking) welded to the back of some Sykes Pickavant units. Motorbike ones might work?

Remove the collar.  Clamp the eye in a vice, shock upwards.  Undo the lock nut - you might find like I did on most of mine that allowing the nut to bottom on the thread of the damper rod sightly allowed me to simply unscrew damper rod from the eye.  Reverse procedure to fit new extended eye.

On the ones that didn't, I made sure I clamped the damper rod where the rubber bump stop would normally fit - thus hopefully minimising the effect of any damage I might inflict to a region I wouldn't tend to be using.