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Full harness


Hippy Crippy

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How big a job is it to remove the anertia seatbelts and replace them with full harnesses? Is it best to leave the reels in the bodywork but just remove the stalks, as it appears that this would allow you to fit the full harnesses. Do you have to remove the shock absorbers to release the reels from their enclosures.

 

As my kit is partially built would I be best changing them now, or is it easy to change them once it's fully built. Will a full harness pass an SVA.

Does a full harness restrict you - car mainly for road use. 🤔

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I cant offer any help regarding fitting harnesses but i can say that having been in a 7 with interia reel belts they dont give you the feeling of being securely strapped into the car in the way that harnesses do.

 

The only downsides with harnesses are they take a little longer to put on and they make it impossible to lean forwards to get a better view when pulling out of sideroads.

 

As for SVA, I'm pretty sure they are compliant and you shouldnt have a problem

 

Nick

P8MRA - Red and Black 1.6K supersport, back on the road at last. See pictures of it being rebuilt here

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I just installed a six point harness in my SV, thus replacing the original 3 point belts installed from fabric.

 

It took me less than one hour getting everything in place. To access the holes for the lap/crotch belt, I just pulled out the bottom cushion of my seat. Please note that this is an SV, you may have a harder time reaching the holes in a small framed car.

 

I have still not gotten around to remove the reels of the three pointers, but it is on my todo list.

 

Make sure that you use locktite and that you get all the bushings and spacers correctly. I did it the following way (from memory, so double check before you start installing):

 

The lap belt must be fastened with a long bolt that should come with the crotch strap. The lap and crotch belts are fastened in the same hole as the original three point belt. The shoulder belts are fastened on the cross-tube that runs behind the head rests.

 

This long bolt has the following configuration, starting from the bolt head:

Fat washer.

Crotch belt mount piece with the bend pointing inward toward the seat.

Spacer with the narrower part pointing toward the bolt head, thus fitting into the hole of the crotch belt mount piece.

Lap belt mount piece with bend going toward the seat.

Spacer with the narrower part pointing inward toward the bold head.

Paper washer. (God knows why it is there.)

 

Be sure that both mount pieces can rotate without getting stuck in each other, the seat or body work.

 

The crotch belt runs from the bolt directly over the seat, so that you basically sit on it, circling up around the inside of your thighs, toward the release mechanism.

 

When laid out on the seat, the metal tongue that goes into the release mechanism should be pointing upward with no twists on the belt on itself.

 

Measure twice before you fasten anything permanently.

 

The shorter shoulder belt bolts have the following setup, starting at the bolt head.

Fat washer.

Shoulder belt mount piece.

Spacer with narrow end pointing upward toward the bolt head, thus going through the mount piece.

paper washer (I think it was there, if you have four over, use them).

 

That's it.

 

/Magnus F.

 

Edited by - magnusfeuer on 19 Feb 2003 22:05:41

 

Edited by - magnusfeuer on 19 Feb 2003 23:22:54

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Job is pretty easy. Remove seats (4 bolts each), unbolt old belt fixings, fix in new.

 

 

On my car the inertia mechanism appears to be behind a rivetted panel and will therefore be staying in for the time being.

 

Forgive me for being sarcastic but the harnesses are meant to restrict you.

However, what you need to know is that you may have difficulty reaching the ignition key (and may therefore want to fit starter button) and if you have underdash handbrake this will also be off limit.

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