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EDITED topic - Fuse Identification still causing a headache


Mucus72

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I have reviewed the other thread above and my fuses are different. I have also check my assembly guide and got the fuse ident from the back of that. 

This is what I have: IMG_3476.jpg.da26a60a2afec0f9596d253716483ff6.jpg

And this is my fuse ident layout from teh guide:

fuseidents420R.jpeg.622afeb3958493bede8b1fed138ac619.jpeg

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I've stared at the photo and the diagram for a while and I'm not seeing any patterns, even in banks of three. With the exception of a 5/15/15 as candidates for fuses G/H/I in the 3rd bank of fuses from the top.

Can anyone with a 360 or 420 duratec that's 2016 or so please photo their fuses? I just want to initially make sure that mine haven't been randomly inserted...

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I've stared at the photo and the diagram for a while and I'm not seeing any patterns, even in banks of three.

I think that's because your fuseblock is a later version (18 fuses in 6 groups of 3), whereas the AG diagram is for an earlier 15-fuse version (which matches my 2008 R400D, for example).

It looks like your fuseblock is an upside-down version of Dr Slotter's graphics in post #17 here.  If so, your fuses are in fact a very close match to his, the only difference being that his D-E-F group (15-10-7.5) seems to be F-E-D (7.5-10-15) in your fuseblock. 

I'm wondering whether you have the 7.5 and 15 fuses transposed?  If so, it would explain why your fuel pump fuse was 7.5A rather than 15A.

JV

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JV - Apart from my cooling fan is a 30A not a 20A I think you are right. I didnt see the pattern at all, must be an IQ thing ;)

And it would go some way to explaining the blown fuse too. It may be that it was on the way out and the shock from a spin took it over the edge.

I'm now off into the garage to play with these two fuses and see what happens.

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John just done so. Its difficult to see as the wires come out nearest the side skin so it's tight in there and these are at the top.

I "think" that F (which should Instrument) is green in one side and two wires in the other side - one black, one white.

I also think that D (which should be fuel pump) is Yellow with a green stripe and black on the other side.

I first pulled F instruments, which in mine is 15A and when I turned on the ignition the dial needles didn't sweep around. I heard the fuel pump kick in once un-immobilised.

I then replaced and pulled D Fuel Pump, on mine 7.5A and the instruments swept, but the fuel pump didn't prime.

That's enough proof for me. It appears that my fuse layout is IDENTICAL to Tom's (Dr. Slotter) and I have now transposed D and F fuses.

This would be the most likely reason for the failure on track. I guess it was slowly on its way out, and a bit of a jolt knocked it out completely?

When I use the word IDENTICAL above, I still do have a 30A fuse in fuse slot C (Cooling fan). In Tom's diagram, this is shown as 20A with an asterisk next to it. His car photo shows that his is actually 20A. I guess this is OK?

Either way I think we have conclusion, and I am going to have to make up a fuse diagram sticker for the car.

 

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Good result! 

Looking at the 420R AG wiring diagram, the fuel pump certainly has a Yellow/Green input, so that would seem to match. However, the  AG fuse layout chart doesn't match at all (as you've discovered)!

I wonder how the D and F fuses got transposed?  Presumably it was like that when the car left the factory?  Your photo didn't show it but does your car have the paper labelling strip attached to the fuseblock?  If so, what does it give for D and F? 

The other oddity is that your fuseblock appears to be upside down when compared to Dr S's graphic.  Maybe that's the new standard?.

ETA  (revised attempt):  Compared to my 2008 fuseblock, yours seems to have been turned upside down, so that the wires exit towards the sideskin. My wires head towards the centre of the car.  I guess your layout makes it easier to inspect and pull fuses.

JV

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