Smithy77 Posted February 23, 2017 Share Posted February 23, 2017 Does anyone know the figure for the centre bolt holding the pulley to the tensioner mechanism?K-series CC/Titan gold pump set-up with Rover auto-tensioner and R500 flanged alloy pulleyThanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Superwhite R283 Posted February 23, 2017 Share Posted February 23, 2017 Hi Pete, can't help I'm afraid, I kept with the standard pulley :0( Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Superwhite R283 Posted February 23, 2017 Share Posted February 23, 2017 Just found some old instructions, I'll WhatsApp them over, might be helpful Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Smithy77 Posted February 23, 2017 Author Share Posted February 23, 2017 Thanks for that Darren. Unfortunately, that guide doesn't make sense to me at all when it come to fitting the alloy idler pulley: Remove the original nylon pulley from the tensioner (75697) by cutting into it towards the bearing with a hacksaw in two or three places around the pulley, without damaging the bearing. Once you have made the cuts the pieces of the pulley can be pulled away from the bearing. Now fit the replacement aluminium flanged pulley (75664) onto the bearing using some Loctite bearing fit to ensure the pulley is retained. Then fit the large circlip (1300-40MM) against the bearing to prevent float between the pulley and the bearing, it is quite a tight fit, make sure it tucks in nicely under the rim of the pulley. The circlip goes on the side of the pulley which faces the radiator. The tensioner can then be fitted to the front of the pump bracket (75697) by the two shouldered M8 screws provided (75697S), Loctite these into place. You will need to pull back the tensioner against the spring to gain access to one of the bolts. From reading that, it sounds like the bearing is left on the tensioner mechanism and the pulley is fitted over the bearing with it in place. No mention of torque setting for the center bolt holding the bearing to the tensioner mechanism. But the pulley has a flange on the rear face which the bearing is pressed up against. Surely, the bearing needs to be fitted to the pulley first, by pressing it in from the front on the pulley, fit the circlip from the front, and then bolt the pulley/bearing assembly to the tensioner mechanism??If anyone could clarify (and confirm the torque setting for the centre pulley bolt) it would be much appreciated. New bearing arrives tomorrow and track day on Saturday.Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jonathan Kay Posted February 23, 2017 Share Posted February 23, 2017 Can't find the torque setting in the archives. Does it come from another vehicle so that we could check that documentation?Jonathan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Smithy77 Posted February 23, 2017 Author Share Posted February 23, 2017 I believe it is a Rover tensioner for the PAS pump Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jonathan Kay Posted February 23, 2017 Share Posted February 23, 2017 I'll check the Rover service manual tonight.Jonathan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Smithy77 Posted February 23, 2017 Author Share Posted February 23, 2017 Thanks Jonathan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jonathan Kay Posted February 23, 2017 Share Posted February 23, 2017 I've checked the Rover service and overhaul notes, the VVC notes, the Haynes manual and my Elise bumf. I can't find anything beyond the various timing belt tensioners.But my paperless Haynes manual for the Rover 214 seems to have Chapter 1 missing: that might be worth checking.Is there anything special about where the bolt goes? If not and BlatChat is defeated you're left with engine specialists or... the standard torque setting for the size of bolt.Good luckJonathan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Smithy77 Posted February 23, 2017 Author Share Posted February 23, 2017 Noble effort Jonathan, thanks for the help. I'll remove the bolt and let you know the size. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
revilla Posted February 23, 2017 Share Posted February 23, 2017 I have Chapter 1 (not yours Jonathan). Can't see anything.Even the Rover Workshop Manual in RAVE (which I don't have a copy of, cos that would be naughty) only has the following single page on the tensioner (allegedly):I suspect the tensioner was viewed by Rover as a single, replaceable, non-serviceable unit so no specs were published for service procedures. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wrightpayne Posted February 23, 2017 Share Posted February 23, 2017 I guess there is no setting as it comes assembled and is usually replaced as a unit. When you work on cars a lot you get a feel for how tight to do them up based on diameter and what they are threaded into. Put some loctite on it!Ian Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian Mackenzie Posted February 23, 2017 Share Posted February 23, 2017 Have a look here, this may help.....https://www.grampianfasteners.com/files/b19fdce8-84e1-4710-b6de-513c38073111/Torque_Settings.pdf Though it will also be dependant on the material the bolt is now going into....CheersIan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Smithy77 Posted February 23, 2017 Author Share Posted February 23, 2017 Andrew, thanks also for your digging, much appreciated. I would agree with your conclusion. So, the pulley is off and I can confirm the bolt thread is M8x1.25. It's a flattened cap head type bolt with a 22mm dia. head to clamp the inner part of the bearing. Suggestions on torque setting? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Smithy77 Posted February 23, 2017 Author Share Posted February 23, 2017 Ian x2, thanks for the input. The female thread of the tensioner is not magnetic so assume it's aluminium, and the bolt conveniently has 10.9 stamped on the head - grade? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wrightpayne Posted February 23, 2017 Share Posted February 23, 2017 The cam cover bolts (into ally) are 10nm and clutch cover (into steel) are 18nm so I'd go for about 14nm with loctite to be sure.Ian Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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