Removal of differential 2002 K-series SV

[Jake]

Hi, this may have been covered before but I want to remove my current open diff, pop it down to R&R Transmissions, and then reinstall LSD.

The car is running and completely built so need advice as to the quickest/easiest way to do this. Caterham manual is a little light in details. Is this possible for a reluctant mechanic? Is this a service that any caterham service garage would consider and if so, at what approximate cost?

Any step by step instructions?? with photo's? :-)

 

Andy help greatly appreciated. Thanks

[SM25T]

Can remove mine in an hour and a half with a trolley jack and axle stands. Can type some words later. Where are you based ?

[Jonathan Kay]

It's not inherently complex but two problems seem to crop up:

1. Getting the bolts through. (I had this one.)
2. Fitting the washers in the correct order and getting the lateral shims right.

Caterham manual is a little light in details.

Do you have the full Assembly Guide?

Jonathan

[John Vine]

It's not a difficult job, although it's likely to take you longer than Ian's 1h30 -- he could do the job in his sleep!

To give you an idea if it's something you want to tackle, the basic steps are (assuming you have the Ford diff):

1. Place car on axle stands all round
2. Raise De Dion so that driveshafts are approx horizontal
3. Remove N/S rear wheel
4. Remove N/S brake calliper and tie up out of the way
5. Undo 4 bolts attaching hub to De Dion ear
6. Pull complete disc/hub/driveshaft assembly away from diff
7. Repeat 3 to 6 for O/S
8. Remove 4 propshaft bolts
9. Remove 2 lower diff bolts (note number of shim washers each side)
10. Place trolley jack under diff
11. Remove top diff bolt (note number of shim washers each side)
12. Lower diff to ground

As they say in the Haynes manuals, refitting is the reverse of removal.  It's well documented in the Assembly Guide.

If I've missed anything, I'm sure someone will put me straight...

JV

 

[Wrightpayne]

John,

Thats how I do mine - I have got braided hoses all the way to the brake caliper. If Jake has the original rigid copper pipes maybe best to disconnect, after putting a plastic bag over the reservoir - unscrew cap / bag over hole / refit cap,  rather than risk fracturing the copper. It will require brakes to be re-bled.

Again, another winter job for me as the current diff leaking oil from somewhere and am planning to remove the boot floor to aid access to do the fiddly stuff.

Ian

[John Vine]

Ah yes, braided hoses.  I have those.  When I used to have rigid pipes, I could still just (softly, softly) get the calliper out of the way, but your suggestion would be kinder on the copper.

JV

[Jake]

Hi Everyone, Thanks for all your advice. I have the assembly manual now which has more info.

I think with the help of a friend I will attempt this....i'll let you know about the scuffed knuckles...

[Roadsport06]

Where are you based? Enough of us around to give you a hand. Easy enough to do.

This will help you too

http://www.alcester-racing-sevens.com/prop_replacement.htm

[SM25T]

Take the boot floors out to give you better access to the different bolts.