Turning over but not starting

[john milner]

K Series VVC 160 with standard MEMS3 ECU.

The engine is turning over, fuel the pump is priming but the engine is not firing. I have had IACV problems before and am able to eliminate that from experience. It did the same thing a couple of weeks ago but started after a few attempts. I have seen another thread where the fix was a squirt of damp start spray on the fat connector below the air filter. I have tried that and it didn't work. I have tried fully charging the battery to increase the chances of 100% of the volts being available.

I have found that there is no spark so something along this path must be the cause.

My best guess is that something to do with the crankshaft position sensor is the cause. Is it possible to unplug it to check the contacts are clean? I tried pulling it apart but it has not budged and I don't want to break it by getting too rough. Is there a way of testing a crankshaft position sensor or is this a code reader job?

Anything else I should be looking at or eliminating?

[Jonathan Kay]

Have you changed anything recently?

What's the voltage across the battery:

1. At rest
2. Minimum during cranking?

Jonathan

[garybee]

I'd hook another battery up via jump leads to rule that out then plug a code reader in.  Being a MEMS 3 you have the facility to do that so seems a shame to go in blind for no reason.  And they cost peanuts now.

[john milner]

I cannot test cranking voltages during at the moment. I know that post charging it was over 13V and that the engine does seem to turnover well. It loses a bit of ummph after about 10 attempts but I think that even then it is still good enough to start. I doubt it is the battery but I suppose it is possible. I'll try jumping it from another car to eliminate this.

My most recent change was replacing the starter button a couple of months ago. I also pulled the fat plug apart under the air filter a few months before that to aid access to the clutch.

I have unplugged the ECU to check for corrosion. The contacts are clean but the larger plug was very difficult to get back in.

I'll look into getting a code reader. I was thinking about getting a cheap one that runs via Bluetooth anyway.

The lack of spark makes me think this is related to the crankshaft sensor, it's wiring or the ECU.

One other thing there is no petrol smell and the spark plug I pulled was dry. This may also point to the crank sensor/ECU but a fueling problem is possible if we assume my no spark test was a bad one.

[Jonathan Kay]

One other thing there is no petrol smell and the spark plug I pulled was dry. This may also point to the crank sensor/ECU but a fueling problem is possible if we assume my no spark test was a bad one.

You could give it some Easy Start or similar while cranking.

Jonathan

[john milner]

OBD error codes 300, 313, 443 & 1590. These relate to fueling and possibly ABS (or lack of). If the crankshaft sensor is not detected the fuel pump will not run which may explain fuel error codes.

Removed and cleaned the crankshaft sensor. Tried starting with it removed and the problem was the same and no additional error codes appeared.

Multimeter shows an open circuit across the crankshaft sensor when I think it should be 1200 Ohms so unless I learn that this is wrong in the next few hours I am buying a new one.

[SM25T]

I had a job getting the big plugs home again on the ECU. Found the white bars in the middle of the plug had moved ... needed repositioning ... then it was easy. My 160 VVC wouldn't start without a bit of throttle. Replaced battery and it now starts first touch without any throttle. ... the way it always used to.

[john milner]

New Lemark CKP sensor (£14 Ebay) fitted and started first time. The new sensor reads over 1200 Ohms. The P0300. 313 ,443 & 1590 codes kept reappearing after clearing but eventually went away and stayed away even after a short run. Now I have a code reader I can easily keep an eye on this.

I splashed out and bought two scanners a Bluetooth one for £3.99 and a handheld for £20. The Bluetooth one can do more and came with Torque and OBD Doctor but is a bit flaky. The handheld (OBD Mate OM123) is more basic but is easier for code reading.