Unknown cable

[Kensboats7]

this morning I discovered an unknown cable in the boot of my 2013 40th roadsport. It is fastened to the seat bulkhead braces and terminates in a white three socket female plug.  Would this be for a third brake light ( I hope )? It is well fastened and dificult to get at and the actual cable is protected by a plastic tube that dissapears through the floor, it seems to be factory fitted, any ideas?

[Jonathan Kay]

I'd guess either high level brake light or power for accessory socket.

Can you see the colours of the wires or get a multimeter on the connector?

Jonathan

[Kensboats7]

Sorry 2 pole female - red and black cable, just managed to dig it out enough to look properly, but cannot find multimeter at the moment.

[SM25T]

Probably for high level brake light if 2-pole. Multimeter needed to prove it. Look at the 48 LED strip brake light from Car Builder Solutions. Only about £14. Run its cable up the underside of the brace for the roll bar and hide it under electrical insulating tape.

[Alan Archer]

Hi ken,

If it is not the high level brake light don't panic, they are easy enough to do and will only cost you about £30 for a led light and the additional wiring loom, I would be happy to pop over and give you a hand if you decide to do it.

Alan

[Jonathan Kay]

That's two wires: one solid red and one solid black?

I think that Caterham's colours of both guesses are in the archives.

Black is traditionally earth and Red live feed switched with the side lamps. I'd check whether that Red goes live with the side lamps or with the accessory or ignition position of the ignition switch. Or the brake lights.

Jonathan

[Kensboats7]

Hi chaps, thanks for the input, as soon as I can locate the meter I will give it a go. The 48 LED strip sounds like the way to go, I am also thinking about replacing the headlights with LED types - I saw some great 5 3/4 bike replacements when we were in Portugal recently, seems to be a straight swap!  Will update after a few experiments. Best regards, Ken

[Jonathan Kay]

There's quite a bit on LED headlamps in the archives, including one big thread. Look forward (!) to seeing what you come up with... please could you think about before and after photos?

Thanks

Jonathan

[Ian B]

Be aware that unless they've changed the model, the 48 LED brake light from CBS has a considerably reduced intensity after 2-3 years.

[Alan Archer]

Depends how often you use your right foot Ian 

[Martin J]

Just a tip Ken, seeing you following on Sunday's blat. You need to drive with dipped headlights on as the other cars show up so much better than you. 

All the best. 

[Ian B]

Indeed, but I've seen quite a few on other peoples cars that are very dim now 

[Kensboats7]

I do take the point about driving with dipped headlights. Soon after getting the car I started to actually do this but on one occasion I stopped off at home for about 30 mins and forgot to switch off the lights.  Half an hour later the car would not start, battery flat and needing a recharge. Since then I have been a bit wary of doing the same thing while away from home. Of course with a battery the size of a small loaf and short journeys it was to be expected. Hopefully a change to LED lighting may help the situation. The units I saw in Portugal were sealed beam type and I was not sure if they would be a straight replacement on the Seven but at 24 euros each they did seem to be a good idea and affordable. I imagine that they should be available for vintage bikes in the UK but have not had time to look around for them. Ken

[SM25T]

Sevens and Classics can supply 5.75" LED units to fit in your shells for I recall £240 ( supply only).

[Kensboats7]

Back to Porto then on Ryan air and spend the change on ice cream and cakes!

[Ian B]

Ken, I'd suggest fitting a Battery Isolator switch and getting in the habit of using it every time you leave the car (that will also stop any parasitic battery drain from immobiliser etc).

Alternatively I fitted a Headlight Warning buzzer to the last seven 

[Kensboats7]

Can I fit the isolator on the battery earth lead or positive as a single pole locking switch, or is something more esoteric needed which keeps the imobiliser in line and powered ?  I have several lockable switches here from the boats which are 24 volt rated and one would be easy to fit on the passenger side. Ken

[SM25T]

If you isolate the complete system .... which i would recommend ... the immobiliser will return to whatever state it was in when you switched off the power .... when you turn it back on.

[Kensboats7]

OK, thanks for the info - exactly the opposite to my old Honda which cost me 50 quid for a bloke with a laptop to reinstate the imobiliser codes after the battery died due to a short in the cigarette lighter.  Right then, another job for a rainy day.  On another note, anyone thought of just adding a couple of rechargable bicycle headlights as daytime driving lights? Ken

[Ian B]

Ken, you can use any suitably rated isolator, as long as you don't use it to turn off the car when the engine is running. To do that you will need to fit an FIA switch that has a dump resistor fitted.

The isolator can be fitted int he negative or positive of the battery feed, and I've positioned one through the bulkhead above the passenger footwell on a K-series before which worked well (if you use the red keyed FIA lookalike type, position it so the red key is horizontal when "on".

If you have the "rover" two button keyfob immobiliser, be sure to "set" the immobiliser before turning off the isolator. When you turn the isolator back on, you'll then need to press the "disarm" button on the immobiliser about 5 times to re-sync the fob and disarm the immobiliser    

Edited to add that I wire a ciggy socket direct to the battery (via an inline fuse located next to the battery) that ISN'T isolated by the switch, which allows you to easily connect a battery charger if necessary - although with a decent battery, especially a gelmat type, you shouldn't need to use a battery charger, but it's a nice facility to have.

[Kensboats7]

You chaps have all been so useful in your comments, so thanks to all. I already have the 12 volt socket fitted ready to use a smart charger during the winter months, although I fully intend using the car at least once a week when possible. I will fit an isolator switch too, probably a key operated type as I already have a few handy. I am also looking into the possibilities of LED lighting for either driving lights or headlights, so that looks like the coming seasons hobbies taken care of. Thanks again and best wishes to all, Ken

[Jonathan Kay]

But what was the mystery cable?

Jonathan

[Kensboats7]

Turns out to be a third brake light cable. It has been suggested that Caterham probably removed the light before selling the car. Anyway, I will be reinstating a high level brake light, as well as doing a few  other mods over the winter months. At the moment the list includes better mirrors, decently designed wind deflectors with built in mirrors as I love driving the car without the doors, but dont want to aeroscreen, some improved storage space for odds and ends and a basic tool kit strorage, and an easily and fully removeable spare wheel rack / luggage rack for touring. 

[Jonathan Kay]

Thanks

Jonathan

[nickh7]

Plenty on mirrors in the last few months . I have a tool roll strapped to the floor in the boot and a teng alloy  socket set that fits between the back legs of the FIA bar and is held in with a strap.