Neukummer Posted February 13, 2003 Share Posted February 13, 2003 Does anyone have a procedure for changing the cam belt on a1.6k series? Is it as simple as it looks or are things I should be aware of? Where are the timing marks etc? Thanks John S Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WILL FLY Posted February 13, 2003 Share Posted February 13, 2003 John Where in Hants are you ? I live in Fleet and have done mine twice recently so am fairly good at it. I can mail you the procedure off list. Depends on how mechanically minded you are. Roy See willfly.net for more info. If you don't spin you ain't trying Happiness is knowing you have just a tad too much power Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Carmichael Posted February 13, 2003 Share Posted February 13, 2003 Your big struggle is going to be loosening the front pulley. I use an electric impact wrench type thing that works well when the engine is out of the car. Several blatchatters lay claim to techniques for jamming the flywheel by inserting ye olde big hairy-arsed screwdriver in the bellhousing. You need the crank 90 deg BTDC. There is a mark on the pulley and on the lower front cover. Your next struggle is locking the cams. It makes life much easier if you have a cam locking tool (specific to the K-series, I have an extruded aluminium Sykes Pickavant one). After that everything is plain sailing... Sort of. 1. Be careful to get all the slack you can out of the tension side of the belt. 2. Be wary if it has had the head skimmed at any stage as this will mean the timing marks won't quite line up. 3 Use medium strength threadlock (Loctite 242) on the bolt on reassembly. 4. Torquing up the front pulley is easily done with a helper standing on the brake pedal with the car in a high gear. 5. Turn everything over by hand (twice) before starting the engine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
V7 SLR Posted February 13, 2003 Share Posted February 13, 2003 Ahem.... and remember to remove the socket and wrench from the front pulley bolt otherwise cranking the engine over undoes it again. [ashamed smiley] Worcs L7 club joint AO.//Membership No. 4379//Azure Blue SLR No. 0077//Se7ens List Tours Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CHRIS CLARK Posted February 14, 2003 Share Posted February 14, 2003 Further info on screwdriver technique. It works ('cos I had to do it last W/E after water pump failure). I have a flat blade driver with a square shaft that nicely fits into the tooth pattern of the starter ring on the rhs of the engine. This can be seen through the quadrant that is exposed in the bell housing under the plenum/dthb's etc (looking rearward). After inserting it so as to lock the flywheel I use a small 'G' cramp to hold the sq. shaft screwdriver against the engine web (the one that goes at 45* and supports the bellhousing). That stops it jumping out at the critcal moment and saves the heart attack as you think you've really broken something expensive! Like this it can be used for undoing or doing up the front crankshaft bolt (205Nm). I had no-one to help by standing on the brakes etc....... ☹️ I use the Rover plastic cam locking tool as less likely to mark ali vernier pulleys (approx 7 ukp) Good luck Clamshell Club Founder Member. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now