ScottR400D Posted June 23, 2016 Share Posted June 23, 2016 Yes it has changed a lot. Back then it could well have been Dot 3, or even a castor oil based fluid, both of which have much lower auto ignition temperatures than Dot 4 or 5.1. I understand you can still get Dot 3, though it's much more likely to be 4 or 5.1 that's stocked. Again from what I read Dot 3 isn't good enough for a modern, performance disc braking system. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The_ASH Posted June 23, 2016 Share Posted June 23, 2016 Talking of fire extinguishers there is one of dubious provenance here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Alston Posted June 24, 2016 Share Posted June 24, 2016 Please never ever use a Dry Powder extinguisher on your car. They are the most messy products known to man, but most importantly, they use a modified form of Bicarbonate of Soda and as such is extremely corrosive to every thing it touches including aluminum and wiring. Indeed I have seen a Porsche engine nearly destroyed by the application of dry powder on a small petrol fire. A far better product would be a Foam Extinguisher containing AFFF (Aqueous Film Forming Foam) which is both cleaner and just as effective. However, it's a real shame they outlawed BCF extinguishers because here we are talking of real effectiveness and knock down power in fighting fires. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Area Representative Paul Richards Posted June 24, 2016 Area Representative Share Posted June 24, 2016 As the name suggests AFFF is water based and suitable for Class A and B fires but not electrical. Dry powder is suitable for Class A, B and C fires (inc. electrical fires). Take your pick. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NeilCSR Posted June 25, 2016 Author Share Posted June 25, 2016 Re. siting of extinguisher, forgot to mention the bracing struts in the footwell of the CSR (see pic). Advice welcome re. how where to site in a CSR.Also - any experience of the gas extinguishers? Novec™1230 is used by Lifeline and Spa - much more expensive that AFFF but is the effectiveness worth the cost difference, especially when considering size/weight? Thanks,Neil Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RogerB Posted June 26, 2016 Share Posted June 26, 2016 in response to Neils initial question I would like to suggest a water mist extinguisher. This is a relatively new type of very efficient water extinguisher which can be used on most classes of fire including electrical and liquid without making the same mess as dry powder.Im not sure if it is promoted for cars however it was highly recommend on a recent refresher fire fighting course I attended. please see link to one model I turned up with a quick internet search.http://www.safelincs.co.uk/e-series-water-mist-fire-extinguishers/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Jonathan Kay Posted June 29, 2016 Member Share Posted June 29, 2016 I was wrong in #21 about what I have. They're actually AFFF in the cars and garage, and powder in the house.Jonathan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CharlesElliott Posted June 29, 2016 Share Posted June 29, 2016 Race cars come with AFFF extinguishers and three nozzles. One towards inlet manifold, one in the footwell and one over the fuel tank. Charles Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IanJ Posted June 30, 2016 Share Posted June 30, 2016 I went for one of these and mounted it on the windscreen wiper motor bracket on the passenger side:http://www.elise-shop.com/sparco-fireater-fire-extinguisher-elise-exige-vx220-p-344.htmlI read reviews/watched videos suggesting it was effective and didn't leave any mess - no direct personal experience (I'm pleased to report)!Plus it's light, small and not too expensive. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
p.mole1 Posted July 4, 2016 Share Posted July 4, 2016 AFFF or aqueous film forming foam is designed for for liquid fuel fires, it works by forming a thin film over the top of fuel excluding the oxygen. It is very effective however most hand held extinguishers are too small you want at least a 1.5 or 2L size, bulky.A car fire develops extremely quickly and a hot engine and oil will make things more difficult to extinguish, with the problems of re ignition,so you need enough extinguishing medium to also have a cooling effect.The most effective solution is the plumbed in version as you need to attack the fire as soon as it breaks out.If your car catches fire by the time you stop and although I don't recommend it,remove your bonnet it might be too late, unless its just a wiring problem.On a 7 the engine compartment is so well ventilated removing the bonnet will not add any more oxygen to the fire but you are putting yourself at risk by doing so and it will be very difficult to apply the medium with the bonnet on.Having said that the advantage with a 7 is there is not much plastic Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick T Posted July 28, 2016 Share Posted July 28, 2016 My thoughts for what they are worth, if money and space are not an issue I would go for a plummed in system. The advantages are they will direct the fire fighting medium under the bonnet with no additional risk to the user. Also they tend to have a bigger capacity.with regard to hand held, halon are really good but you will not be able to get one. The dry powder does not remove heat, so if the smothering effect is lost (windy day) the fire can reignite . AFFF does provide smothering and cooling but needs to be directed with care to achieve the full effect.appreciating that this does not really answer the question, if nothing else the dry powder are cheap and easy to use so as a minimum carry one of these but if cost and space are not an issue AFFF as a plummed in system.cheers Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gloucestershire AR Posted July 28, 2016 Share Posted July 28, 2016 Not sure if it's been mentioned but a kill switch on the car is useful too. It kills all electrical circuits and so can help stop a fire being fed. Checking to see all electrics are off was the first thing I was taught as a fire marshal back in the 70s. Easy to overlook in the heat (sorry) of the moment.Andy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gloucestershire AR Posted July 28, 2016 Share Posted July 28, 2016 ...oh and I always try to carry racing fireproof gloves in the car (7 and tintop too). Gives some protection and means you can touch hot things with a few seconds of protection. Not foolproof but burns to hands can be tricky to mend and, unless you are Django Reinhardt, playing guitar with burned hands is not so good.Andy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cr500dom Posted August 1, 2016 Share Posted August 1, 2016 Most of the plumbed in systems are labelled as "Fire suppression systems" rather than "Fire extinguisher systems" They are designed to suppress the fire for long enough, so that you can get out. Racing systems are smaller than Rallying systems as its assumed you wont be very far away on circuit from a Mannned marshalls post with Big fire extinguishers to hand. In a Rally car you could be a long way so its up to you to put the fire out. Rallying requires i think a 4kg plumbed in, with another 2.5kg hand held. I have a 2.5kg Plumbed in AFF system to go in the boot on the caterham, and I have a Halon 2kg portable to put the fire out, illegal to use now, but will definately extinguish a vehicle fire. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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