Starting Issues on R300K 2004

[Piers300]

Last year at the 2015 Isle of Wight Blat, the car failed to start on Sunday morning. It would just crank strongly (battery is good) but there was no spark and it did not fire once. There were no starting issues before or on the way there. After a great deal of assistance from many people (Thank you all – you know who you are) and late in the afternoon, Mick Smith extended the carbon rod on the spring in the distributor cap, so it made better contact with the rotor arm. (Thank you Mick). The car immediately started at the first turn of the key and ran fine and we returned home with no issues.  The car was serviced soon after and a new rotor arm, distributor cap, spark plugs and HT leads were fitted. I had no more problems in 2015 when blatting locally.

The car often takes time to start from cold after a couple of weeks of non-use. No throttle is used when cranking. It will start eventually and settle down to a tick over, on I assume an auto choke. It seems to run at 1100 rpm and as it warms the speed drops to just below 1000 rpm. When hot, the engine normally starts immediately.

This year, the failing to start returned at the 2016 IoW Blat. The first time, fiddling with the HT centre lead on the distributor cap, enabled the car to start on the first turn of the key. The second time, giving the spring a pull in the HT cap caused it to start. The third and fourth time, repeating the spring pulling exercise caused it to start immediately.  It did start OK, so we could get on and off the ferry, which was the real concern. Later, when the clutch cable broke on the A249, it also started with no problems.

The only thing I have not changed is the coil, nor have I checked for clean contacts on the power supply connector to the coil etc. It seems odd that I have not had any issues locally and it cannot be that the car has an aversion to the IoW. Any suggestions on this please.

 

Piers

[Budjuggler]

Yes. Don't go to the Isle of Wight!

 

 

 

I'll get me coat ......

[Jonathan Kay]

It's going to be a bit hard to diagnose if it only happens that rarely, but:

1. Clean all related connections, including the main engine block earths, as you suggest.
2. Can you get it to fail by playing with the lead and cap when you're not near the IoW? Usual HT precautions.
3. There is test kit available for HT systems. I think Paul had some and may be able to advise.
4. Fitting a(nother) replacement cap and lead (and even more of the distributor if that doesn't cure it) may be a pragmatic approach.

Jonathan

[John Vine]

IIRC, my old 1999 SS-R (EU2) displayed similar symptoms, traced eventually to an intermittent short between the rotor arm/spindle retaining screw and the camshaft.  Might be worth a quick check there.

JV

 

[Piers300]

Thank you John and Jonathan.

I'll take a look at the weekend. Unfortunately, I have the MoT on Monday, so need to ensure it will start.

Piers

[Piers300]

John

When I looked at the rotor arm last year, it was very firmly on the shaft and I gave up trying to get if off. It was replaced by the garage. So I assumed that it was a tolerance fit, but based on your information it may be held in place with a retaining scew. Can you advise exactly what I am looking for and the solution please.

Many thanks

 

Piers

[Dixa1225]

8mm headed bolt holds the rotor arm in place , sits in a recess within the rotor arm

[John Vine]

Piers,

The problem occurred after I sold the car to my daughter and son-in-law.  All I know is that the retaining screw was implicated in some way.  I don't know exactly what the fix was but I'll ask them.

JV

[Piers300]

I needed to get the car ready for its MOT on Monday, so it started and I reversed it out of the garage. A quick wash and wipe and I was ready to check everything and it would not start. So, I changed the distributor cap, then the rotor and all HT leads. Still it would not start, so I decided to change the coil. After a bit of access trouble, the new coil was in with the old HT lead - nothing - dead. 

I then fitted an older HT lead from the coil and it started first try.

I am still not sure I have really cracked it but time will tell

 

Piers

 

 

 

!

[Piers300]

I went to start the 7 today and once again, it would not start. It cranks really well, so it is not the battery, as it is on a conditioner.

Previously, I have changed the Distributor cap, new rotor arm, new HT leads and a put a nearly new coil in.

I had the car serviced by a local guy last year, who works on 7's for Kent Sports Cars and says he has done so for years. He balanced to Throttle bodies and did a good job. I just wonder if he used cheap Chinese HT leads.

I eventually put in a spare HT lead from the coil to the distributor and it started first turn of the key, so there is something odd going on. I want to buy a set of genuine O.E MG HT leads from someone like Rimmer or Redline (preferred supplier).

Can anyone confirm the MG part number for the complete HT lead set for an R300K of 2004 vintage.

I have found on the Rimmer site: GHT9020 and they look right, but are they genuine ?

Thanks in advance

Piers

[Jonathan Kay]

I went to start the 7 today and once again, it would not start. It cranks really well, so it is not the battery, as it is on a conditioner.

What's the battery voltage while cranking? Some seem to sound OK but the voltage drops too low for the ECU or something.

Jonathan