HeMan Posted April 4, 2016 Share Posted April 4, 2016 Just found out that one of my rear pads has worn a nasty groove in to my disc! So although they don't need replacing for any other reason, it looks like I will be needing to replace both rear discs and pads...Although I could send it off and get someone else to do it, I thought I might have a go at doing it myself, but where do people buy these from and how do I know what I need (are they relatively standard across 7s)? I have a 2006 K-series SV.Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wrightpayne Posted April 4, 2016 Share Posted April 4, 2016 Generally, discs are the same as the fronts - triumph herald/spitfire. Pads are ford sierra. You will need some specific tools 41mm socket and 200 ft lb torque wrench and caliper wind back tool. Also recommended to replace drive shaft nuts one normal thread and one left handed - these need the big socket and torque wrenchIan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HeMan Posted April 4, 2016 Author Share Posted April 4, 2016 Thanks Ian. Do you just go on down to Halfords and ask for those, or is there somewhere online people go? Same for the nuts, am I likely to get them with the discs or do I need to order them specially? Are there "upgrades" available or being such a light car do people just stick with the standard? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Jonathan Kay Posted April 4, 2016 Member Share Posted April 4, 2016 You can borrow most of those tools.Drive shaft nuts from Cateham Parts or Redline (I would think).Most people stick with standard discs. What do you use your 7 for?There's a lot more discussion around different pads... see the archives.Jonathan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HeMan Posted April 4, 2016 Author Share Posted April 4, 2016 Mainly road, but a few track days a year too. It has 180bhp from a 1.8... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wrightpayne Posted April 5, 2016 Share Posted April 5, 2016 Rimmer Bros for discs - triumph specialist or Canley Classics.I think the disc bolts have thinned heads on them which can be difficult to remove. I modified a socket by grinding the face off (chamfered bit) to get a better purchase. Maybe order some spares of these or a full set just in case. These need loctite when installing.RegardsIan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SM25T Posted April 5, 2016 Share Posted April 5, 2016 Don't forget the brake (piston) windback tool for Ford. This is needed to screw the pistons back (only ever clockwise) into the caliper before fitting new pads. Slacken handbrake cable adjuster off completely before starting. When you refit everything and pads are in place .... check handbrake operating levers on calipers are against the stops. Don't touch the handbrake lever ..... until you stand hard on the brake pedal a few times to operate the self-adjuster in the piston. Only then can you adjust the handbrake cable. When done .... check the handbrake operating levers return to the stop pins when handbrake released. Check wheels turn freely. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SM25T Posted April 5, 2016 Share Posted April 5, 2016 Hopefully a local member can help if needed. Always good to learn from someone who has done it before. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slipper man Posted April 5, 2016 Share Posted April 5, 2016 You can get a universal "winder" tool from draper for about a fiver. Or use a spanner, as I did for 15 years! I wouls ask Mick at Redline - totally reliable and nice guys Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Vine Posted April 5, 2016 Share Posted April 5, 2016 The hubs nuts from CC (LH, RH) are not expensive. When you come to undo the disc bolts (four each side), fix the whole hub/disc assembly in a wheel on the floor. This holds everything good and firm. You'll need a 14mm socket and a breaker bar. Just go gently and press the socket down firmly (a knee works well) as it's easy to round off the thin heads.Edited to add: There's a good guide for removing/replacing the pads here.JV Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
simonpa Posted April 5, 2016 Share Posted April 5, 2016 Hi HeMan,I'm in Fleet and have a wind-back tool as well as a big socket..My S3 is currently in bits, so I can show you what needs to be done. I also have a vice big enough to hold the hubs in place, to swap the discs over, if needed. I have just changed all the discs/pads on mine.Feel free to PM me to discuss/meet up. Cheers - Simon Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SM25T Posted April 5, 2016 Share Posted April 5, 2016 Good result. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HeMan Posted April 5, 2016 Author Share Posted April 5, 2016 Indeed, lots of useful info, thanks everyone, especially for your offer of help Simon.I will do some shopping, check my tools and see how I get on. I might be back... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HeMan Posted April 8, 2016 Author Share Posted April 8, 2016 Hello,Anyone know what I should be expecting to pay for a set of standard discs and pads, or if the Mintex M1144 are worth the extra?Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wrightpayne Posted April 9, 2016 Share Posted April 9, 2016 Discs are < £15 each. I'd be inclined to stick with standard / tintop pads in the rears and just upgrade the front pads to mintex. Fronts do most of the braking. I have this set up and its been perfect on track and road.Ian Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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