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Mobil 1 & dry sump levels


Griff

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It falls off? Oops. I better check it... or pull it off first. I never use it. Actually, seems like there's another "lightening" opportunity for someone to produce a nice single "lid" instead of the double-jobbie currently in place. *wink*

 

Worcs L7 club joint AO.//Membership No. 4379//Azure Blue SLR No. 0077//Se7ens List Tours

 

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Rob,

 

The first time I removed the sump pipe I made a point of measuring how much extra I got out, over and above the oil drained from the tank. It was ~1.5l. V7 uses the 'finger in the hole' method and needs 4l to refill, whereas I have to stick about 5 in after 'pipe removal'. When you change the oil as often as we do, it probably doesn't matter either way.

 

Griff, In saying "should have a dip stick" I was probably a bit over zealous with the word "should". This is a Caterham we're talking about after all. Contrary to Graham's experience I find the dip stick helpful, though the only sure way to calibrate it is via the catch tank method.

 

Cheers,

 

Jon

 

 

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jonhill wrote

When you change the oil as often as we do, it probably doesn't matter either way.
Hallelulja (or something). Ain't that the truth. Having averaged out all my oil changes over the last 16,000 miles I appear to change the oil and filter every 2,000 miles.

 

I change the cam belt every 6,000 miles, cam seals every 6,000 miles and if we're being really silly, the valves every 14,000 and cams every 16,000 miles. Upgradeitis. 😬

 

Worcs L7 club joint AO.//Membership No. 4379//Azure Blue SLR No. 0077//Se7ens List Tours

 

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not wishing to disagree Jon (but I will!!) I actually think that the only sure way of getting the right oil level is with a dipstick from the bottom, although Nige manages to use the top loading one.

 

I actually think that the catch tank method is the least reliable method for checking the oil level. I don't think it just pumps out oil until the right level is found. How do you know when it has stopped for example?

 

Graham

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The greatest propensity for pumping oil to the catch tank is when the engine has been idling with hot oil and is suddenly blipped to high revs.

 

Why is this?

 

Because the drainage in the engine is greatest when the engine is upright and not subject to G forces. The internal drainage of the engine is done by gravity and is unassisted. The drainage does not get any better as revs rise. Therefore, the greatest excess of drainage over the oil pumped into the engine is at idle. The hotter the oil, the thinner it is and the better it drains.

 

This will give rise to the greatest amount of oil in the catch tank. All that is then required is a blast of scavenge to cause bubbling and splashes of oil to be carried out to the catch tank.

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Graham,

 

Surely it is logical that once oil starts to come out into the catch tank, you can't get anymore into the system? Therefore it can be described as full. Even if it ejects more under certain circumstances than others, so long as these circumstances are experienced in normal driving (including on the track) then I don't see how you can describe it as unreliable. If you measure by another method, and you're slightly off, then you'll either lose oil into the catch tank or won't have a full load aboard.

 

If you empty the catch tank, add oil bit at a time, running the engine in between, you soon see when it starts coming into the catch tank (well you do if you have the translucent white plastic tank, as supplied by Caterham). At that point check the level using whatever method you like, and in future you don't really need to do more than keep an eye on the catch tank, you can check on the dipstick.

 

Isn't this fairly logical?

 

Jon

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yep I agree with the argument that logically you could use that method to fill the system. However I maintain in practice it is impossible to use and very probably messy!

 

As Peter says, it doesn't help from then on. You would have to just keep filling it up and pouring it out the catch-tank!

 

Graham

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