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2002 1.4 K Series Classic New Owner Questions, Help Appreciated


JosephClarke

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Hi All

As the soon to be new owner of a 2002 1,4K series classic I have a couple of questions before collection,

Fluids, regarding Engine Oil coolant etc, what is the general consensus I have what is detailed on the chassis plate and in the owners manual which looks to be Comma brand in specific weights etc. With 2002 being sometime ago what is the consensus now, is there an oil people generally consider to be best for these K series engines? I am looking to take a top up with me when collecting as have a 200 hundred mile journey home and want to check the levels before I set off.

Build manuals, I have the owners manual but I assume when supplied the car would have come with a build manual. is there anywhere I can get either a physical or digital copy, it would be really useful for maintenance and torque settings etc. They have the latest one on the Caterham site but I assume this will be for metric cars etc.

 

Thanks

 

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Re oil, there are probably as many opinions as the number of people you ask.  if you intend to rev the nuts off it (as you undoubtedly will, especially if you have a 6-speed box), or you plan to do trackdays, I'd go for Caterham's own Motorsport 5W/50 (made by Comma, I believe).  If you plan to motor in a more sedate style, probably a 5W/40 would be better (from Halfords, also made by Comma, I believe).

 

Re coolant, I'd go for Comma Xstream G30 (also from Halfords).

(Note that the Club has a discount deal with Halfords.)

Out of interest, what does your handbook / chassis plate recommend?

 

Re the Assembly Guide, this one should cover your car.

JV

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Hi thanks, Chassis plate recommends

Road Use: Comma Syner - Z

Track: Caterham Motorsport

I am going to be using it for road use at first with track use maybe in the summer. The car has done 13,000 miles and as far as I know never had a rebuild.

This is initially really just to top it up if need be for the drive home, I will be doing a full fluid swap of the whole lot once it's back home in the next few weeks.

Thanks

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I've just noticed that the Tech Helpline number on the back of the Halfords 5W/40 above belongs to Comma, so it's a fair bet that they did indeed make it!

For info, Comma Syner-Z is a 5W-30, Comma Syner-G is a 5W-40, and Caterham Motorsport is a 5W-50.  Personally, I'd go for the 5W-40 (under the Halfords label) for road use, either as 2L (linked above) or (better value) 5L.

ETA: Or google Comma Syner-G and find it cheaper from a motor factor.

JV

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I use halfords 5w40 synthetic - usually buy when its on offer.

It is changed every year with very low mileage compared to the usual expectations of oil in the tintop. Quite a few Rover specialists on ebay selling genuine oil filters - target price is about £32 for 10.

Ian

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Could anyone confirm, is the below the correct filter for a 1.4k series?

 

Reference OE/OEM Number: LPW100181 Filter Mechanism: Cartridge
Other Part Number: LPW100181 Brand: MG (Genuine OE)
Part Manufacturer: mg rover Manufacturer Part Number: LPW100181
Part Manufacturer Number: lpw100181

Cheers

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Don't worry about asking loads of questions -- that's what TechTalk is for!  

I think you'll like the 1.4K engine -- very sweet and revvy -- especially if you also have the 6-speed box (it was a Classic option, I believe). 

You may find soon that upgradeitis strikes and you'll be hankering after more power.  The Supersport upgrade was highly regarded -- it involved hotter cams and a re-programmed ECU (for a higher rev limit) but unfortunately it's no longer available from CC.  However, it might be worth posting on TechTalk to ask whether the cams themselves are still available. 

JV

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Thanks and good to know the questions are ok, I have a couple more hoping people can help with.

Firstly see this picture, this wire runs from somewhere in the loom I cant trace out along the OS wishbone and into the brake caliper, any ideas what it is I cant see it mentioned in the build manual? Apologies for orientation, the rotation flag is set on the image but whenever I upload it here it rotates it.


/sites/default/files/images/users/13910/IMG_1314.JPG

Next question, I have a few rust spots such as here at the base of the pedal box cover and underneath on the chassis rails, only very light surface rust but I want to sort it now before it gets worse, is there a generally accepted best thing to recoat chassis parts in?


/sites/default/files/images/users/13910/IMG_1327.JPG

Next question, :) the alternator to negative cable has a piece of hose pipe over it, any ideas why is heat a common problem  for this cable? The wire underneath is fine just not sure why someone would have done this?


/sites/default/files/images/users/13910/IMG_1319.JPG

Last question found this spare plug on the loom any ideas, is it for the left hand drive only charcoal canister as mentioned in the build manual?

/sites/default/files/images/users/13910/IMG_1320.JPG

Thanks in advance.

 

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Firstly see this picture, this wire runs from somewhere in the loom I cant trace out along the OS wishbone and into the brake caliper, any ideas what it is I cant see it mentioned in the build manual?

What colour? Sensor for speedometer sensor on wheel? Brake pad depth warning???... anything unusual about your brake set-up?

... the alternator to negative cable has a piece of hose pipe over it, any ideas why is heat a common problem  for this cable?

It's notorious for heat damage from the exhaust. But that looks as if it might have been added to avoid abrasion.

Rust prevention and treatment for iron-based components... here you go.

Jonathan

PS:

Apologies for orientation, the rotation flag is set on the image but whenever I upload it here it rotates it.

Don't worry. I try to beat this into submission but don't always succeed. And can never resize...

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Been checking through my list of things to address, noticed the battery has leaked at some point down Into the footwell, have removed it and will lean the tray and footwell. Any best thoughts on what to clean it with other than plenty of water. Secondly any reason why  the battery may have leaked. It's a standard banner battery, I have seen you can buy breather tubes but mine doesn't have any? Could it be a sign the battery is faulty?

thanks

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Spilt battery acid: Some people suggest trying to neutralise it with sodium bicarbonate. I recommend large amounts of water. Then brush off any white crud. Then even more water.

Does your battery have little holes in the corners on top? I think most Banners have two, with a variable number of plugs inserted. It should have one plugged and one connected to a length of tubing. Polyethylene is fine.

It's possible but unlikely that it's been overcharged.  Has it been on an external charger?

First tests on the battery:

  1. Check fluid level if appropriate, and definitely in your case.
  2. Measure voltage across the terminals at rest, while cranking the starter, and at 3,000 rpm.

Jonathan

 

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The spare wire is standard, believe it's a redundant earth for a two-pin guage temperature sender (the one used earths via the water rail). They all have them. The looms were derived from Rover looms and also have all the wires for many options not used on all cars. You will find all sorts of unused connectors and cut off wires taped back into the loom for charcoal cannisters, post catalyst lambda sensors etc. All normal and nothing to worry about.
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The car came with a ctek so I expect it's been on that, I will check on the vent holes tomorrow but there is definatlely nothing connected to it as I have removed it to wash the areas down that have been spilt on. I took the caps off the bat this eve and the water level is above the plates so looks ok to me, not used to this battery care my eunos had a sealed cell so it was simple.

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Thanks all for help so far, I am putting my questions in this thread as seems better placed than general.

Next on the list is rust prevention/ treatment and servicing.

Regarding surface rust on chassis , for treatment of surface rust I plan to use por15 as have used it before unless anyone has a better recommendation?

For preventative maintenance I have been searching the forums to see what others are doing, my main concern is the chassis rails and the areas where the steel meets aluminum. ACF50 and Dinitrol 3125 seem to be the main things people recommend, are these considered the best for preventive maintenance?

I see lots of mentions of the "grot traps" i think I know what people mean but could someone post a link with pictures of a cleaning description so I can be sure I have got them.

Thanks as ever lots of questions promise I will slow down once I am more used to the car!

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